tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4858276091266808522024-03-13T09:20:08.141+00:00Male Devon SewingMan-made in DevonJamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.comBlogger74125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-47833942306821307832016-11-19T23:28:00.004+00:002016-11-20T08:15:15.160+00:00The Fox, the Bear & the Bunny by Olive and Vince. Pattern book review. This is an exciting post for me. Not only am I reviewing a sewing pattern book written by someone local to me but I am reviewing something a little bit special.<br>
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<b>"Children thrive on play, so why shouldn't their clothes reflect this?"</b></div>
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<i>Disclaimer: I have no connection to the publisher or authors but was kindly gifted a copy for review. All views expressed are my own. Photos Kate Whitaker.</i><br>
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<b><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fox-Bear-Bunny-playful-clothes/dp/0857833677/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479597773&sr=8-1&keywords=fox+bear+bunny" target="_blank">The Fox, the Bear & the Bunny</a></b> by <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/oliveandvince" target="_blank">Olive and Vince</a>, aka Natalie Martin and Naomi Regan (published by <a href="http://www.kylebooks.com/" target="_blank">Kyle books</a>) is a sewing pattern book, with a difference and will really appeal to so many. Looking at the front cover, you might be mistaken, in thinking it is a children's story book. No this is a pattern book for children's clothes; children's clothes with a difference!<br>
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You will always hear me moaning about the lack of menswear patterns and the same could be said for patterns for children's wear: Limited, dull and boring spring to mind but <b><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fox-Bear-Bunny-playful-clothes/dp/0857833677/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479597773&sr=8-1&keywords=fox+bear+bunny" target="_blank">The Fox, the Bear & the Bunny</a></b> is about to change all that.<br>
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Olive and Vince was launched in 2011 selling a unique range of children's clothing. <b><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fox-Bear-Bunny-playful-clothes/dp/0857833677/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479597773&sr=8-1&keywords=fox+bear+bunny" target="_blank">The Fox, the Bear & the Bunny</a></b> is an extension of their successful business but now you can make your own!<br>
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<i>Confession: I should have written this review last week but I so enjoyed reading it, getting inspiration and even making from it that I've not really put it down.</i><br>
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So what do we have? A 127 page paperback with 17 full-size, pull out patterns (age 1-5 yrs) for you to create some beautiful children's clothes. I've already mentioned the beautiful cover and the same can be said for the rest of the book: Beautiful photography, clear diagrams and almost whimsical illustrations throughout.<br>
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The first section introduces the writers before moving on to some guidance/techniques and a list of what you will need; it is brief but actually just right, having enough information for the beginner/novice sewer without re-repeating every other sewing book on the market. I get so annoyed with sewing books that have pages and pages of the same stuff. The book will be bought by people who sew, regardless of ability and don't want pages wasted, telling them the same.<br>
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The following, main, chapters; The Bunny, The Cat, The Fox, The Mouse, The Owl and The Bear are where we find the real gems. Pages and pages of instruction, diagrams and photographs to help you make some really interesting clothes. No it is not full of girls dresses! Instead we find clothes for girls and boys all with an animal theme.<br>
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From a simple pair of paw print mittens, more challenging fox faced dungarees to amazing duffle coats in various animal varieties. There is definitely something for every ability in this book.<br>
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The instructions for each garment are clear with suitable illustrations to help you with more difficult aspects. What's really nice is the instructions are obviously written by people with a passion for sewing; you can feel it throughout. They aren't 'clinical' but more friendly as they explain the steps and want you to succeed.<br>
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The pull-out patterns are well printed on good quality paper. They are clearly marked but you will need to trace off the size you want. Now I know many people don't like tracing patterns but being children's clothes they aren't too big so you don't end up with large sheets of paper everywhere. In fact tracing your pattern pieces gets you thinking about the make before you even start sewing (well it does for me). Seam allowances are included on the pattern but are 7.5mm (5/16 inch) which is a little odd and might confuse some. The standard seam allowance of 15mm (5/8 inch) has been discarded in favour of the narrower allowance as it is suitable for those using an overlocker (serger). If you prefer a larger seam allowance then just trace your pattern pieces a little larger (another good reason to trace?) </div>
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There are some nice practical makes included such as a long sleeved T shirt and shorts (and if you have children you can never have enough of those!). </div>
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The book concludes with templates for the Appliqué pieces used plus a list of suppliers. </div>
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<b><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fox-Bear-Bunny-playful-clothes/dp/0857833677/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479597773&sr=8-1&keywords=fox+bear+bunny" target="_blank">The Fox, the Bear & the Bunny</a></b> is a really well written book and one for any sewers bookshelf. If you sew then it is a must buy and with a price of £18.99 it is excellent value. You might have noticed how much I like this book and it is true. It is different, clever and takes sewing children's clothes to the next level. </div>
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My only criticism (the only one) is that weird seam allowance I have mentioned. It might confuse those new to sewing or indeed catch you out if you expected a 'normal' allowance. However, what a brilliant book and one I know I will be returning to again and again.</div>
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My thanks to Natalie, Naomi and Kyle books for allowing me to review.</div>
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Until next time.....Happy Sewing!</div>
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<br>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-43671741530660250532016-11-05T12:18:00.002+00:002016-11-05T12:18:58.108+00:00The true cost of clothing and what I am doing about it.A man walks into a charity shop, has a look around, then heads to the cashier with a handful of long skirts......OK I know it sounds like the start of a joke but that man was me and after a few awkward moments, as the cashier eyed me up and down, I explained what I planned to do with the skirts (more on that later). The cashier seemed impressed and told me I should have a word with the manager as they get a lot of skirts donated but most of them don't go onto the shop floor but are thrown away.<br />
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It was while I was driving home that the conversation really hit me: The charity shop throws lots of clothing away that, I quote, "isn't perfect". Now looking back I do remember when charity shops were generally full of 'junk' but over the years, more and more of us donate our unwanted clothing to one charity or another. The problem, however, is that with so much more arriving at the shops, they can select the garments that will make them the most money off the peg: No longer will you see a shirt on the rack with a missing button or a small tear, instead you will find a lot of 'as new' clothing (many still with labels on!) commanding a higher price. Yes good for the charity concerned as it helps them generate much needed funding but what about the other waste?<br />
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Last year a film was released by filmmaker Andrew Morgan called '<a href="http://truecostmovie.com/" target="_blank">The True Cost</a>'. A documentary that examines the untold story of the clothing trade. (If you haven't yet seen it I suggest you have a look). Whilst we are constantly reminded about the horrors of low pay, poor conditions and slave labour evident in so many clothing manufacturers the real message is <b>we buy too many clothes and don't spend enough on them</b>.<br />
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One thing really stood out for me from the film:<br />
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So I did a little research and indeed it is true. Well, figures vary depending where you look but generally between 10-30% of all clothes donated to charity shops are resold to us. What about the rest? Well about 10% goes to landfill and the rest is sent overseas. It gets sent to developing countries (via a middleman) and generates revenue for the charity shop and middleman, of course. The UK is the second largest exporter of used clothing in the world, after the US. That equates to over £400m or 380,000 tonnes of our discarded clothes: In fact globally around £3.1bn is sent abroad. </div>
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This might sound OK as your discarded clothes are going to help people less fortunate but in fact it is having an adverse effect. The millions of pieces of clothing are saturating the market and having a detrimental effect on their own textile industries and creating unemployment. </div>
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So what can we do? We know we buy too much and living in such a 'throw away' society doesn't help. We also have to live within our means and can only spend what we can afford on clothing: But it is a vicious circle; we buy cheaper garments (that we can afford) and this usually results in poorer quality items that wear-out quicker, zips that break after the first use or start shedding buttons over the carpet. So the piece of clothing gets dumped into a black bag and heads to the charity shop, possibly ending up further afield.</div>
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I know the vast majority of us that sew at home do it because we enjoy the hobby, not for financial gain. Indeed only today I went to a local shop to buy some fabric to make a few T-shirts: I could have bought 4 ready-to-wear T-shirts for the cost of the material to make one at home! We sew to get something a little different or to show of our creative side. We sew for friends but never charge them the true value of the garment we have made. </div>
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Long gone is the era of 'Make do and Mend' and I think we need to rethink this, not just the craft-orientated types but everyone. If clothing is sold at a more realistic price we will take better care of it. We will treat it with respect: When a button falls off we will sew one back on. When a zip breaks we will put in a new one, when it stops fitting correctly we will alter it and when that treasured garment finally comes to an end we will think how to reuse or up-cycle it. What do you think?</div>
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You may have seen a new sewing magazine in the shops this month called <a href="http://www.moremags.com/home-page-scroller/issue1-sewnow" target="_blank">Sew Now</a>, well I'm excited to say I will be featuring regularly in the publication and hope to inspire you in addressing some of problems I have mentioned here. Go buy your copy!</div>
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So back to the start of this post and my handful of skirts I purchased in the charity shop. I had an idea of what I wanted to do and thanks to seeing the <a href="http://www.korbond.co.uk/our-story/our-news/korbond-group-creative-upcycling-challenge-competition" target="_blank">Korbond Creative Upcycling Challenge</a> I went for it. You know I love making menswear, especially shirts and jackets, so what better than to up-cycle 4 of the skirts into a tailored mens jacket?</div>
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After carefully taking the skirts apart I looked at how the colours worked together. I cut out the pattern and went for it. I managed to use the lining from the skirts for the jacket lining...just! </div>
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Apart from the thread and the interlining everything else was reused/upcycled. The buttons came from my 'old' button stash and I even managed to find a nice green one for my trademark odd cuff button.</div>
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Everything else went together well and I am really pleased with how it looks. OK it might be a little 'wild' but actually looks pretty good on.</div>
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I didn't spend my normal amount of time with tailoring techniques such as hand-sewn button holes or complete pad-stitching but overall it's a success.</div>
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Considering I have seen similar 'patchwork' jackets for sale costing upwards of £500 I am more than happy to do my little part in up cycling and saving these skirts. I also have a really fun jacket made of really nice fabric for £12!</div>
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So with Christmas rapidly approaching and the start of the 'Sales' have a little think. Stop and think about if you really need that bargain. Think about the clothing you already own and before you send it off to the charity shop, think about refashioning or up cycling.</div>
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Until next time......Happy Sewing</div>
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Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-88285178561243165402016-10-18T16:06:00.000+01:002016-10-18T16:06:58.867+01:00Book Review. Make it, Own it, Love it by Matt ChappleI am really excited to be reviewing the new book <i><b>Make it, Own it, Love it</b></i> by Matt Chapple (published by Jacqui Small). The book is released this Thursday 20th October for £20 (<a href="http://amzn.to/2dcoBQx" target="_blank">Buy it here</a>) and I have been lucky to get an exclusive look.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRreq2ks3v-HtBmSCv0628I4geNb4HxJ6cfu3WH2szLNthBs_vjy5R7HJPoA-Y72Qd5hGRM0yqIJIU7vtXNZyGgyC49UuvUaclz4uPYR3gBheGZJrc6tkl9hN8YYl3XUKPjlj0mFYuMOMW/s1600/MIOILI+-+Front+Cover+Final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRreq2ks3v-HtBmSCv0628I4geNb4HxJ6cfu3WH2szLNthBs_vjy5R7HJPoA-Y72Qd5hGRM0yqIJIU7vtXNZyGgyC49UuvUaclz4uPYR3gBheGZJrc6tkl9hN8YYl3XUKPjlj0mFYuMOMW/s320/MIOILI+-+Front+Cover+Final.jpg" width="270" /></a></div>
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<b>Equally exciting: I have 2 copies up for grabs for 2 lucky readers courtesy of the publisher. Read on to find out how you can be in with a chance to get your hands on a copy.</b><br />
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Disclaimer: I have no connection to the publisher or author. All views expressed are my own.<br />
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When I received an email asking if I would like to review <i><b>Make it, Own it, Love it</b></i>, naturally, I jumped at the chance but when the book arrived I realised the difficult task ahead. I suddenly thought how hard it might be for me to review. Although I've never met Matt I feel that I know him, not just because we both appeared on the Great British Sewing Bee but he is a man that sews, like me: Also, would I read through the book and be thinking 'I would have said this...' or 'I would have done that...'?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNe9FGrlborYM3WYVpTyRD9R-khS4bfyXb4uL6PaMLqNJKwr6vrg0sM0UE5mz03Jt7Ex7eDzbqEAO7FT3Bx1cVm0i7GLIxTuqowFDddsYJ1i5ayEtxy_zsRzDohc-R0vtAPdInl5lDgr-/s1600/Knowing+your+machine+-+credit+to+Simon+Brown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVNe9FGrlborYM3WYVpTyRD9R-khS4bfyXb4uL6PaMLqNJKwr6vrg0sM0UE5mz03Jt7Ex7eDzbqEAO7FT3Bx1cVm0i7GLIxTuqowFDddsYJ1i5ayEtxy_zsRzDohc-R0vtAPdInl5lDgr-/s320/Knowing+your+machine+-+credit+to+Simon+Brown.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;">Photo: Simon Brown</td></tr>
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Actually, as soon as I started reading, I forgot my silly thoughts and got stuck in. The book is clearly laid-out in a crisp, modern, clean style. The typeface is easy on the eye with excellent photographs throughout. Instructions are supplemented with clear drawings and the writing style is very relaxed yet clear: In fact you can almost hear Matt as you read.<br />
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Firstly, this book is a little different to many other sewing books I have read. It is not a 'technical' book that focuses on one area of sewing, nor is it a 'general', catch all beginners sewing book. What Matt has done is to create a book that will get people interested in sewing or indeed rekindle your interest; from beginners to more advanced sewers, there is something in the book for everyone. I consider myself to be a more advanced sewer but there are several things in the book I shall be having a go at! (Thanks Matt)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl3nLo4mwAomex5HW6_-SbY9F1zkO1L_lv2r5Fj5Kr8Y7D-qNW7Get-S8czyinzspZ3XUeemG5dE4AksM-lDO5PUBq5jWcCJ_mlvox_0O-h4t2CqQOudUMbG_Ec6gexA00BnPpn5ndmy_h/s1600/Nautical+style+skirt+-+credit+to+Simon+Brown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl3nLo4mwAomex5HW6_-SbY9F1zkO1L_lv2r5Fj5Kr8Y7D-qNW7Get-S8czyinzspZ3XUeemG5dE4AksM-lDO5PUBq5jWcCJ_mlvox_0O-h4t2CqQOudUMbG_Ec6gexA00BnPpn5ndmy_h/s320/Nautical+style+skirt+-+credit+to+Simon+Brown.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;">Photo: Simon Brown</td></tr>
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The book is split into several chapters, each having many sections: The book starts with Matt guiding beginners and less experienced sewers through tools and basic techniques before moving on to the nuts and bolts of the book.<br />
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In the <i><b>Make it your own</b></i> chapter Matt demonstrates and guides the reader through various aspects of customising, altering and embellishing a multitude of garments. This section also includes must know techniques and methods involved in sewing.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDsvL_1b65aztM-OegvYaD5f6mtvkQOdQBfmkfaranfuyUJNJzD1ZxQ14xwUjev3sz72ZCK8XSZu_Ar7RKi7uTCY3waozS7T0J8LYC8hvbjx3AHtTRF92u27L3bWSn0Zc3KUuiknN-6bJK/s1600/Scuba+Skirt+-+Credit+to+Simon+Brown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDsvL_1b65aztM-OegvYaD5f6mtvkQOdQBfmkfaranfuyUJNJzD1ZxQ14xwUjev3sz72ZCK8XSZu_Ar7RKi7uTCY3waozS7T0J8LYC8hvbjx3AHtTRF92u27L3bWSn0Zc3KUuiknN-6bJK/s320/Scuba+Skirt+-+Credit+to+Simon+Brown.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;">Photo: Simon Brown</td></tr>
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The following chapter, <i style="font-weight: bold;">Make it from scratch</i>, will appeal, I think, to everyone. Matt shows the reader how to make several garments, as the title suggests, from scratch. There is nothing overly-complicated but plenty to get the reader involved and wanting to have a go.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw0foTk8CnXQdh-VN6Dh4ecuojSvR0e2thMVvWulvoH40ZyUWe49f_VJ3nl-RxzDFbh-wYeAns_XoUcoRcCaq5HUoxFv6BPRo5j2DrogiJ_jEROrl_1cCDst4fWGaxwGLZzFnG9jV6cwtd/s1600/Fitting+the+bust+of+a+dress+-+credit+to+Simon+Brown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgw0foTk8CnXQdh-VN6Dh4ecuojSvR0e2thMVvWulvoH40ZyUWe49f_VJ3nl-RxzDFbh-wYeAns_XoUcoRcCaq5HUoxFv6BPRo5j2DrogiJ_jEROrl_1cCDst4fWGaxwGLZzFnG9jV6cwtd/s320/Fitting+the+bust+of+a+dress+-+credit+to+Simon+Brown.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;">Photo: Simon Brown</td></tr>
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The final chapters covers a multitude of areas designed to help you get the best out of clothing. Matt really touches on an aspect so often overlooked and one I feel very passionate about: Repairing and maintaining clothes. We live in a throw-away society and it is great to see someone actually writing about how to mend something, rather than just throw it away!<br />
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I really enjoyed reading the book and I think Matt has really done well for his debut. It is refreshing to see a well written sewing book that covers so many different areas and I know it will appeal to many sewers. The book is well priced at just £20, especially as so many hardback books seem to command more.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFn2KSYciis2rVYQpd8zvAtHgSVv5TKOoSlK8Sxdrsr7V5y6HI6iKR0cTTyDOtUt6VFAOFZauknbIccqn7MbQJev4mhlZytaI2ZAydn9lVk5X793S_X2sTUvSDe0b_5L1u25bKWj8Wu5Rr/s1600/Matt+Chapple+-+credit+Simon+Brown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFn2KSYciis2rVYQpd8zvAtHgSVv5TKOoSlK8Sxdrsr7V5y6HI6iKR0cTTyDOtUt6VFAOFZauknbIccqn7MbQJev4mhlZytaI2ZAydn9lVk5X793S_X2sTUvSDe0b_5L1u25bKWj8Wu5Rr/s320/Matt+Chapple+-+credit+Simon+Brown.jpg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;">Photo: Simon Brown</td></tr>
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Well I guess you can't write a review without any form of critique but I will be honest as there are really only two things: The next paragraph I will write is me being really, really picky:<br />
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I was disappointed that there were not more menswear items included in the book. I know menswear and sewing is a very underrated area but it was a shame that Matt didn't promote it a little more.<br />
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Whilst the photographs and drawings in the book are very good, I did feel that a few of the more difficult techniques could have done with more drawings for clarity.<br />
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So would I recommend the book? Yes definitely. It is a sewing book that gets you thinking and is good at refreshing your memory on less used techniques or skills.<br />
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My thanks go to the publisher for allowing me to review and congratulations to Matt on his first book.<br />
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<b>DO YOU WANT TO WIN A COPY?</b></div>
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Of course you do and thanks to the publisher you can. All you need to do:<br />
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<li><b>Share this post via Twitter or Facebook (or both!)</b></li>
<li><b>Leave a comment below to let me know what sewing means to you</b></li>
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The 2 lucky winners will be picked at random next Friday, October 28th at 7pm.</div>
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Good luck and until next time....Happy Sewing!</div>
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<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-26405999583015357452016-09-19T22:14:00.000+01:002016-09-19T22:14:29.968+01:00Colette Albion Duffle Coat Review- Winter is coming!<div style="text-align: justify;">
Have you ever sewn something that you really enjoyed? What I mean is, have you made something from start to finish and enjoyed every bit: No tricky bits, no mistakes, no difficult instructions.....A bit like a really good book; it draws you in, keeps you reading then you don't want it to end. </div>
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Well that has just happened to me. It's my sons fault, as the other week we were sat in bed and I was trying to encourage him to watch Paddington Bear (the old series from the 1970's) when I got an idea: I need a duffle coat for the upcoming winter. Now, I knew exactly who to turn to as I have seen the <a href="https://www.colettepatterns.com/catalog/albion" target="_blank">Albion pattern from Colette</a> so many times, but have never made it. Well now it was the time and this is what I ended up with.</div>
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I purchased the pattern from <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Britex Fabrics</a> and it arrived 4 days later (amazing quick service!). I had some lovely wool fabric, that in the back of my mind I'd been saving for such a make and so it began.<br />
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Now if you have never made anything using a Colette pattern.........What have you been waiting for?! The packaging is beautiful (and practical to store the pattern pieces after use), the pattern itself is very accurately printed and the instructions...wow amazing!<br />
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I got started and from the first stitch, I was hooked. The outer shell is a blue/grey wool plaid and I opted for a quilted cotton lining. As I knew I would use a quilted lining (2oz) I cut the pattern a size bigger. I always prefer a bigger looser coat anyway.<br />
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The coat has an upper yoke (doubled at the back) which I managed to pattern match. The yoke is top-stitched to add a bit of depth and feel.<br />
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The coat has in-seam pockets with large patch pockets on the lower front. The patch pockets are finished with a flap and I made the in-seam pockets with the quilted lining fabric for added warmth. </div>
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I also hand picked the in-seam pockets with silk thread before adding hand sewn bar tacks, top and bottom, for a little couture touch.</div>
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I decided to add a drawstring to the hood front (not in pattern) by sewing a buttonhole at the bottom edge of the hood facing. This was then finished by sewing a channel (through outer and lining) and then adding the cord.<br />
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The pattern was very easy to follow, due to the the very detailed instructions and this allowed me to enjoy the make without worrying about doing something wrong. I opted to make my own toggle closures as they are so expensive ready made: Simple enough and sewn on by hand for a little more 'couture'.<br />
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I added an inner pocket to the lining, for practicality, in the outer wool fabric for a little contrast.<br />
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The sleeves are finished with tabs, although they only have one buttonhole so are not adjustable. I might add another buttonhole further back to allow me to tighten the cuff if needed in bad weather.<br />
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The pattern was incredibly good to make and I really did enjoy it. Just like reading a good book, I didn't want this to stop. I now have a really nice coat, ready for the harsh winter I am expecting!<br />
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Would I make this again? Yes indeed and I certainly will. I'm sure this could easily be adapted for a female fit so that might be my next move, (a present for the wife perhaps!) but I can see myself blogging about this again next year when I make another!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEOePWHkYC9gmIljsQgDQEPxMb2tismOGegrD0ZfUBhv1PU6uh3OvbaQRqvxTR4XaXJwdwMFMvta-oDaARrDLGWJ2w57aJwaFqE2hPMVoseY2I-MK-zfAPj9fAhE5Fxcpx4EYCIxisn8e/s1600/IMG_2264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivEOePWHkYC9gmIljsQgDQEPxMb2tismOGegrD0ZfUBhv1PU6uh3OvbaQRqvxTR4XaXJwdwMFMvta-oDaARrDLGWJ2w57aJwaFqE2hPMVoseY2I-MK-zfAPj9fAhE5Fxcpx4EYCIxisn8e/s320/IMG_2264.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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So there we go. If you fancy making a coat I can certainly recommend this wonderful pattern.<br />
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Until next time....Happy Sewing<br />
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<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-43611775439142362482016-09-14T16:13:00.001+01:002016-09-14T16:13:16.168+01:00Latest Minerva Crafts Blogger Network post - First Wedding OutfitWell it has been a little while, due to many things happening but I can reveal my latest <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/all" target="_blank">Minerva Crafts Blogger Network</a> post.<br />
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<a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/post/my-first-wedding-outfit" target="_blank">My first Wedding Outfit.</a><br />
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<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-31126508249435277522016-09-07T20:26:00.004+01:002016-09-07T20:26:51.032+01:00Britex Fabrics Guest BlogThe lovely people in San Francisco at Britex Fabrics asked me to Guest Blog again so click <a href="http://j.mp/2bUnSDW" target="_blank">HERE </a>for my 'Different Kind of Shirt'<br />
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<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-3663594485946887612016-09-05T11:57:00.000+01:002016-09-05T11:57:43.406+01:00The 'Guild' Jacket revealSo following on from my last post on 'workwear' fashion I have been busy designing and making. So here I present to you my first iteration of the 'Guild' jacket.<br />
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Based around the French Chore Jacket, or Bleu de Travail, I drafted this pattern to be a little more tailored whilst retaining the traditional look. I kept distinctive large patch pockets with double row topstitching. I also kept the inside right pocket where the stitching shows through to the right side of the jacket.<br />
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The side seams were tailored and nipped in slightly to lose the very baggy look of the original and I sculpted the back seam very gently to form a nice fit over the shoulders to the waist. Two piece sleeves give shape with a simple cuff to finish the arm but I think next time I will make the cuff an opening type.<br />
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I used flat felled seams throughout for strength but more for the aesthetic.<br />
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The collar is slightly shallower than the genuine article but again adds shape to the overall look and does not look 'heavy'<br />
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Many original style jackets have the button placket made as a shirt would be but I decided to add a facing that extends around the neck. The facing and hem were bound in a contrasting binding.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA4Rxpa9zFT1UWFDUIwdEM01DP-sFTpyjd8ojyJ-epQOOJD09ELSJKqo28eJ-wNp4znxFAUiokPXafGgDY97mvnQjPlQiFdrMKxWjdhtKpZUGBMklQmjlXAZfHBWyqEIEKvaKPlnSdQeVJ/s1600/IMG_2220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA4Rxpa9zFT1UWFDUIwdEM01DP-sFTpyjd8ojyJ-epQOOJD09ELSJKqo28eJ-wNp4znxFAUiokPXafGgDY97mvnQjPlQiFdrMKxWjdhtKpZUGBMklQmjlXAZfHBWyqEIEKvaKPlnSdQeVJ/s320/IMG_2220.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The fabric was originally a very dark blue cotton drill but I wanted a different colour. So into the bath with some weak bleach. This 'haphazard' bleaching has left the fabric with a lovely worn look which I assume will only get better with age.<br />
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So views please. What do you think? This is a really nice easy sewing project, especially if you have never made a jacket before: No complicated techniques, no fancy linings or interfacing etc. I'm hoping, with a little refinement, to produce a pattern for this so please do give me feedback to help me.<br />
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Until next time...........Happy sewing<br />
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<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-66185021791319614642016-08-09T22:22:00.000+01:002016-08-09T22:22:18.171+01:00Workwear fashion?<div style="text-align: justify;">
As an keen sewer I am constantly thinking about clothes and in particular menswear. The problem is that us men have a really limited range of clothing: I suppose what I mean is that a lot of mens clothing is boring. I know you can make clothes in different ways and use different material but most menswear is 'samey'. This got me thinking about wearing other forms of clothing; no not skirts and dresses but looking at more utilitarian forms of clothing. A lot of clothing 'styles' that, both men and women wear daily, had a past life and started out being designed for a different purpose other than as fashion. </div>
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Take the humble pair of jeans; designed for cowboys and miners but are now a staple of everyones wardrobe. The Bomber jacket was, as the name suggests, for military pilots. Of course a lot of military style clothing has become fashion over the years and not just for the camouflage pattern. I remember as a teenager how the Donkey jacket was what everyone was wearing, me included!</div>
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Back in June I read about the death of <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bill_Cunningham_(American_photographer)" target="_blank">Bill Cunningham</a>, the legendary New York Times fashion photographer and there was an iconic picture of him with camera in hand, perched on his bike. What really grabbed my attention was what he was wearing. The classic blue work jacket or 'bleu de travail'. Sometimes called the French chore jacket and similar to the 'engineers' or 'railway' jacket. </div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4DN60fq2iSNdLtEr7YIe7_SogbtYHxbKYsHaGF07PDt4eipMgETxIfcqDxhbDdcTwVvFRtVynFyXWMkYYQ7EtJJQv71UXmWnpoZI_NOaasXkbSUR7Ay5jG4x5Hg4Y8GFtoyLN8wgc20I/s1600/la-1466898112-snap-photo.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4DN60fq2iSNdLtEr7YIe7_SogbtYHxbKYsHaGF07PDt4eipMgETxIfcqDxhbDdcTwVvFRtVynFyXWMkYYQ7EtJJQv71UXmWnpoZI_NOaasXkbSUR7Ay5jG4x5Hg4Y8GFtoyLN8wgc20I/s320/la-1466898112-snap-photo.jpeg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: right;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #999999; font-family: Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; text-align: start;"> (Mark Lennihan / AP)</span></td></tr>
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This got me thinking again and whether more 'work wear' could become fashion. I'm not suggesting we all go out and dress like labourers but surely this type of clothing is practical as well as comfortable? What about making a 'chore jacket' in a different colour (other than blue or black) and adding a little shaping to bring it more into fashion. </div>
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Of course I did a little research and the French chore jacket, has indeed become fashionable including an oversize woman's version hitting the catwalk from <a href="http://vetementswebsite.com/collection/pe-2016/" target="_blank">Vetements</a> in their Spring collection. Now being fashionable means that buying one will be expensive! Further research shows that only 1 sewing pattern for a similar style jacket exists. The <a href="http://merchantandmills.com/products/patterns/the-foreman-paper/" target="_blank">Merchant and Mills 'Foreman'</a>. Whilst I love the smaller pattern makers doing something different, I wonder if more patterns should exist for the 'workwear fashion' and could other pattern makers do something similar.</div>
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Well I have some decent cotton drill fabric. It was a deep Indigo blue but after a quick soak in the bath (with a drop of weak bleach solution) it is now a deep maroon with a worn out/washed out look.</div>
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So I am going to design my own chore/engineer/railway jacket and see what happens. A bit more research is needed and thought as to what will bring the garment up to date but hopefully I will have something together soon.</div>
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What do you think? Can workwear be fashionable? </div>
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Until next time.....Happy Sewing</div>
Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-20045893173329283582016-07-17T12:17:00.000+01:002016-07-17T12:17:06.138+01:00John Kaldor print, Burda shirt makeSo having rummaged through the lovely pile of fabric I was so kindly gifted, I stumbled upon a beautiful bold flower print by John Kaldor. I have tried to find the print online but can't see it, so if anyone knows the name of the print please let me know.<br />
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Pulling my go-to, <a href="http://www.simplicitynewlook.com/b7045/" target="_blank">Burda 7045</a> pattern out, I knocked up this shirt with a few modifications/detailing. I lengthened the fronts by 3 inches and then curved them to meet the original side seam and repeated the process for the back. 7045 is a short straight hemmed shirt but I prefer a bit more fabric to tuck in.<br />
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I opted for view C collar, which has the collar points buttoned down using a small loop behind and an extra pair of buttons either side of the central collar button. You can just see it in the next photo. Of course, being such a bold print I had to pattern match as much as possible including the front.<br />
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The centre button placket for the original pattern is a simple (double) folded under affair but I opted to go for a sewn on version (English placket). Simple enough to cut the original design and recut another button stand (making sure the pattern matched of course!) This was sewn in place and top-stitched. I quite like the look of the double button, so spaced 12 buttons holes up the front. You can just see the pattern matched pocket with burgundy edge stitching.<br />
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The under, button stand was made in the same way but in the contrasting burgundy cotton. This burgundy cotton was also used for the collar stand (inside and out) and the inner yoke. The yokes were bias cut and I didn't pattern match the outer yoke as I like the feature of a visible yoke.<br />
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I wanted to do something different with the cuffs so made the placket in the burgundy and the cuff outer the same way. The inner cuff was in the floral fabric (so sort of reversed) and I added a small loop to mirror the collar loops.<br />
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Rather than cut the mitred shape in the cuffs I folded them up (so showing the floral print) and they are held in place with the cuff edge stitching. Now if you follow my makes, you will know, I always add an odd button to my left cuff and of course this shirt wouldn't be any different. I picked up this funky scissor button on a recent visit to the fabulous <a href="http://bunyipbeads.com/" target="_blank">Bunyip Beads</a> here in Exeter. (Definitely worth a visit if you are passing).<br />
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A few more photos:</div>
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So 23 button holes and buttons later its all finished. Although it is not my normal style of print for a shirt, I am really pleased with how it came out and will certainly be wearing it out and about. I hope you like it and please let me know what things you do to add a little 'detail' when sewing.</div>
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Until next time........Happy Sewing!</div>
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<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-35638343098412419672016-07-01T19:08:00.004+01:002016-07-01T19:08:46.278+01:00Half-way through another year...Where does the time go?I can't believe that it is already the 1st of July. Thats half of 2016 gone already and what a crazy six months it has been. (No I'm not talking about Brexit or any other politics related stuff here, just sewing!)<br />
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I wrote a similar post this time last year <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/half-way-through-2015mds-happy.html" target="_blank">here</a> and wow how things have changed. So my blog has been going for 18 months and in that time it has gone from strength to strength with more and more people visiting, which I still find hard to believe! OK I will be honest that my posts this year have been few and far between but not because I couldn't be bothered but of various other commitments hampering my blog writing time.<br />
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As you know I appeared on the Great British Sewing Bee programme earlier this year and that, as you can imagine, took up quite a chunk of my time. Sadly I didn't progress as far as I had hoped but was proud to even be considered to appear.<br />
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I also found out that I am to be a dad again, with another son expected in September so of course that meant planning things....One thing I had to plan was my sewing room being relocated. I have been lucky and did have the largest room in the house but with another little man heading our way it was time to shift rooms.<br />
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Since moving to this house, as I wrote about <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/moving-house-buying-buttons-and-tweed.html" target="_blank">here</a>, the sewing room consisted of a big dining room table (to cut and sew on) and odd shelves/boxes for storage so I decided to plan the move more carefully.<br />
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So here is the finished room:<br />
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A much better place to sew. I have more storage, space to have all 3 machines out at once, a cutting table at a sensible height and 2 windows for good light during the day. Of course it means that Harry and his new brother will have somewhere suitable for a while to come.</div>
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I have been busy writing for <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/moving-house-buying-buttons-and-tweed.html" target="_blank">Sewing Made Simple</a> magazine and after appearing in the May edition I will be following up with 2 more appearances later this year and I will keep you posted.</div>
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I continue to make and blog for the Minerva Crafts Bloggers Network and I have made a floral shirt and maternity blouse (click photos to read more) and there will be another new post from me soon.</div>
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<a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/post/country-living" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhw-mIIG5XymzuLCa_98lqV1hw4eRbtWzTBkMJQlr33kB8H3xuZCLRVOBYSUau6TX5aWLc6fluGgdgEYvir_WcQnNn2RK3x6Imy0aBP1jF_fbN4tj54x3RMEizFek2seVJzcSyHVzH_IH1b/s200/CountryLiving-3+copy.jpg" width="133" /></a> <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/post/a-different-kind-of-woman-s-shirt" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://www.minervacrafts.com/images/uploads/blogger-network/1646806999IMG_1588.jpg" width="133" /></a></div>
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I was also invited to guest blog for Britex Fabrics in San Francisco and completed a grey knit 'Shacket' for my first make. You can read about it <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/blog/2016/05/09/shacket-made-in-the-uk/" target="_blank">here</a>.</div>
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The wedding dress I have been making for my friend Gemma was completed on time and she had her big day at the beginning of June. It was a lovely day and I even made a shirt to wear especially.</div>
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A Rose and Hubble sewing based print with (pattern matched) pocket and black satin collar stand/inner cuffs.</div>
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I also mentioned I was making a dress for the Mother of the Groom......</div>
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A satin/georgette lace up back with John Kaldor lace covered bodice. I also made a matching lace jacket to finish off the ensemble.</div>
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Oh I better show you the actual dress now it's no longer a secret! Pretty don't you think? It was a lot of work but i really enjoyed making it.</div>
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Now a very strange thing happened to me a while back. I was in my local fabric shop and got talking to a lady called Sally. Now she has been sewing for a long time (a very long time) and was downsizing. She asked me for my phone number because she wanted to give me some of her fabric stash! Well a few weeks ago I got a phone call telling me to collect said fabric. I couldn't believe it! Here is just some of the beautiful fabrics she gave me. I'm glad I made a new sewing room with the extra storage space! Thank you so much Sally.</div>
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Now I mentioned the #Blazerof2016 challenge in my last post and <a href="https://twitter.com/ooobop" target="_blank">@ooobop</a> and I decided to extend the deadline until August so I figured I have time to make another blazer. Well more a mini blazer for my little boy. </div>
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This is the Burda pattern 9452 so basically a little version of my mine in a nice cotton/linen mix. It will be lined and finished this week I hope.</div>
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Now if you like to sew and have a bit of time to spare, how about sewing something to help someone else? Sound interesting? Well the <a href="http://wrappyjamafairies.co.uk/" target="_blank">Wrap Pyjama Fairies</a> make Pyjamas and surgical gowns for children in hospital.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8IG3g0RCdWtRuFzT6IpDYJLgMqtN0EhcEsXZBl7jZUpXK2UEfFvg2T4oKg8FDUlbuB7lRZisOEoRONZV9QE5Oonh54OuHqUcNmmQR7sQfEzm_Feigp7Hj337uN4RFl0lOuAdhKt0mevTy/s1600/header-2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="74" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8IG3g0RCdWtRuFzT6IpDYJLgMqtN0EhcEsXZBl7jZUpXK2UEfFvg2T4oKg8FDUlbuB7lRZisOEoRONZV9QE5Oonh54OuHqUcNmmQR7sQfEzm_Feigp7Hj337uN4RFl0lOuAdhKt0mevTy/s320/header-2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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The charity is always on the lookout for people to help sew these garments so if you fancy doing something a little different and becoming a 'Fairy' head over to their <a href="http://wrappyjamafairies.co.uk/" target="_blank">page </a> to find out how you can help. Here is one of my gowns ready to be sent off....</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGtCXPpezQ84BSLSV8fUW7KQOf_0esgM6M_GscUkYkfe0u6uiPoTQ6aVft0Qc9a8o1rxU-UwyiGz2l1tHnPuzPFvvI8jMpmqRh9cdA4QUD4ivTaeC307roub77HhCWuujXXPb-o9DAYtjp/s1600/IMG_-36hi11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="305" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGtCXPpezQ84BSLSV8fUW7KQOf_0esgM6M_GscUkYkfe0u6uiPoTQ6aVft0Qc9a8o1rxU-UwyiGz2l1tHnPuzPFvvI8jMpmqRh9cdA4QUD4ivTaeC307roub77HhCWuujXXPb-o9DAYtjp/s320/IMG_-36hi11.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And finally....... As you know I enjoy sharing my sewing and in particular giving you tutorials, well I've just done my first video tutorial. Yep thats right a video tutorial! Now be gentle as it is my first attempt and there is definite room for improvement.</div>
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Learn to sew a Welt pocket:</div>
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Let me know what you think and please give me pointers on how I might improve for the future.</div>
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So until next time......Happy Sewing!</div>
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Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-79618695600576750602016-06-03T10:10:00.001+01:002016-06-14T09:07:55.330+01:00I'm back!So I really do have an excuse for the delay in giving you a blog post.....I guess most people by now have heard that I have been a contestant in this years Great British Sewing Bee which started airing a few weeks ago on BBC2.<br />
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So that is one reason my blog posts have been a little slow, the other was the fact we lost Broadband connection for nearly 2 weeks! Although in a way it was quite nice, after the first couple of days pacing around the house. In fact having a nearly non-existent 'social media' connection meant I could get on with some sewing without much interruption. I guess there was a time, before the Internet and mobile phones, where we were all very much more productive?<br />
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Well I am back and can dedicate a bit more time to the blog and start getting some tutorials back for you all.<br />
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I completed another make for the <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/all" target="_blank">Minerva Crafts Bloggers Network</a> and you can read all about it <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/post/a-different-kind-of-woman-s-shirt" target="_blank">here</a>.<br />
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My guest blog post for <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Britex Fabrics</a> went live and you can read the full story <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/blog/2016/05/09/shacket-made-in-the-uk/#more-12307" target="_blank">here</a>. I still can't believe I was asked to write a guest post for them. I just hope I get the opportunity to visit their amazing store in San Francisco one day soon.<br />
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<a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/blog/2016/05/09/shacket-made-in-the-uk/#more-12307" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjALOYTgielzr7IHsb5J3FqTmw8lxjGMUFYUPQa5xyfYDBKk1-CXkpXlrKTiKtUaDgeV3L-SWsY6Cxoo7UtKWfzFPj1vWSR6OJCzh5i6dEZDGtJZqWvvPRkJP9GGTy_vjAbj7xadlo1YJpj/s320/Screen+Shot+2016-06-01+at+12.05.52.png" width="250" /></a></div>
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Now you may remember a little while ago <a href="http://www.ooobop.com/" target="_blank">Janine</a> (<a href="https://twitter.com/ooobop" target="_blank">@ooobop</a>) and I set up the #Blazerof2016 challenge.<br />
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Well we are nearly at the end of the challenge and so far we've seen some amazing blazers made. I hope I will be able to collate all the makes together and share them with you all. So if you are taking part or know someone who is, please do share your photos for all to see. After chatting to people we have decided to extend the deadline....so if you haven't yet finished don't worry. Keep going and share your photos with us.<br />
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I finished the wedding dress I have been making for my friend Gemma and her big day is fast approaching so I will post a some photos of the dress after the big day. As we have been invited to the wedding I thought I would make a new shirt. It will be made from this lovely mid grey Rose & Hubble cotton.<br />
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Right I better go and finish it!<br />
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Until next time....Happy Sewing!<br />
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<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-58680161025893516332016-05-04T21:40:00.000+01:002016-05-05T07:20:39.834+01:00Busy, busy, busy and only one whinge!Oh dear me.....It seems that every blog post I write these days starts with an apology. Yes I am sorry again for leaving it so long between posts but once again I've been so busy.<br>
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I guess with the start of spring and lighter evenings, other things start to eat into your time? In fact I actually spent a whole weekend in the garden doing, well gardeny things...I didn't even venture into my sewing room! A lot of my sewing has been involved making things that I can't yet blog but I promise I will get more tutorials and step-by-step posts up soon. So what have I been up to since my last post?.......<br>
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Well I started sewing workshops! That is, I started teaching them, not attending them! The first Saturday workshop was a great success and I think the participants really enjoyed their time. This workshop was aimed as the beginner/less experienced sewist or those that had not touched a machine for a long time.<br>
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Held in the local village hall, we had a great morning and I have already booked more dates over the next few months. Indeed I only have a few spaces left! I am also running a signed workshop in BSL (British Sign Language) which I am really looking forward to and a more advanced dressmaking course.<br>
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I celebrated my, ahem, forty...... something birthday which was lovely but was spoilt the day after. My lovely wife, Lu, got me a new DAB radio for the sewing room as my old DAB was going a bit weird. Unfortunately some idiot decided that the day after my birthday, it would be a good idea to turn off many of the digital transmitters in the UK and make us all retune our radios. You guessed it....I can no longer listen to my favourite stations: Well I can if I use SKY (which I don't have) or Virgin Media (which I don't have) or listen online (which I do have but without WiFi signal in sewing room). I guess I could move into a more urban location?<br>
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Anyway, whinge over, and back to sewing. The wedding dress I am making is as good as finished. It has been very time consuming, as you would expect, with metres of silk sewn by hand. I have made another friend (mother of the groom) her dress for the big day. Satin with a beautiful lacework bodice. (Sneak peek photo)<br>
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I made a pair of trousers for another friend. He just can't find trousers to fit and got me to replicate a pair he has had for years. I even put some patches on little Harry's jeans too which made a nice sewing change!<br>
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I appeared, again, in this months <a href="http://www.practicalpublishing.co.uk/our-publications/item/196-sewing-made-simple" target="_blank">Sewing Made Simple magazine</a> with part one of a three-part shirt making feature. It is always nice when you flick through a magazine to see something you have written and a lovely feeling to know you are sharing things with the sewing community.<br>
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I mentioned I was to be a guest blogger for <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Britex Fabrics</a> in the US, well my make is finished and will appear next week. Something a little different using a grey knit.<br>
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And my next <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/all" target="_blank">Minerva Crafts blog</a> will also go live next week.<br>
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Phew! See I told you I had been busy!<br>
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So until next time (sooner, I promise).....Happy Sewing!<br>
<br>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-33791477393346065402016-04-12T19:22:00.002+01:002016-04-12T19:29:59.132+01:00Minerva Crafts Blogger Network Floral Shirt<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After a little break from the Minerva Craft Bloggers Network, here is my latest make for them.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Simplicity 1538 in a pink floral cotton. 'Country Living' indeed.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Read all about it <b><a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/post/country-living" target="_blank">HERE</a></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Until next time......Happy Sewing!</span>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-83351939383806971982016-03-18T21:25:00.000+00:002016-03-18T21:25:06.392+00:00Exciting news and a free pattern.<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The trouble is with Blogging there are just too many things to Blog about and just not enough time! So trying to stick to my New Years resolution of Blogging more often here I go.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Firstly I would like to say a huge thanks to all the comments and praise I have received for my #Blazerof2016 jacket. As soon as I posted my last post I was inundated with tweets, comments and words of thanks! I can't wait to see what everyone else will produce.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So a few bits of exciting news:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The most exciting (and important) news is that our little boy, Harry, will soon be a big boy. Yes he is going to be a big brother! If you follow me on Twitter you already know this but I thought I would tell the world. 'We' had our scan last week and all looks good, so in 6 months (or so) we expect to see another little Kemp (and Male Devon Sewist!).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have taken a little break from the <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/" target="_blank">Minerva Crafts Bloggers Network</a>, due to being so busy with other sewing challenges, but I am happy to say I am back. I received the next three MCBN parcels the other day and have already completed my April make. A little tease for you....</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There is a common theme to my next three months makes for Minerva but they are all very different so keep your eyes peeled to see what I make.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In other news I was contacted by <a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/" target="_blank">Britex Fabrics</a> in the US. Now this was a bit strange as I was wondering why a well known fabric store (in the US) would contact me. It seems they would like me to be a guest blogger!</span></div>
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<a href="https://www.britexfabrics.com/guest-bloggers" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht7o-yeFgqZkaTMlDhOHdg6Ow9o3gMZxJwlJW-WhKe4H4pYIGBSmb6oOOqsUtLQd9mf_NhkzpHPy9lOskwOTS5YcwGu1QcsA4B6aiRNoykVrWsnj1xYsgiOI3j7ACTAb55UyeorwdIJnOM/s1600/britexblogger1.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How exciting (I've never even been to America. Although I would love to). I am just in discussion with them as to what to make and what fabric to choose so watch this space.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now I mentioned a free pattern. Well I have drafted lots of patterns in my time but this one is different. I have gone all 21st century. Normally pattern drafting involves paper, pencils, French curves and a calculator but after a Twitter conversation to the lovely <a href="http://iconicpatterns.com/" target="_blank">Lena</a> <a href="https://twitter.com/IconicPatterns" target="_blank">@IconicPatterns</a> in Australia, she suggested I try Adobe Illustrator to draft a pattern. Well as I own a copy of Illustrator I thought, why not!</span></div>
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<a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B14Tp8R-671uVWc2WHMtN3ZzWm8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLKLJWZyyBVCY8QBFBR5JwQNWdCpRUMHkep9OVaNDl_mmb_g78oUfUIr6GD-2_Q1C_u9Wpja0wrsckSnKnfPnNIAztSLY9SSiK5A4NZ-KFq1cPOdxc3_2e0i-r6wHqNOWbx94YzOVy-t8N/s320/fleece+hoodie.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So here it is.. The 'Kool Kids Hoodie' It is designed for 12-18m and comes with no instructions (yet) but is easy to put together. Here is my little man (big brother to be) wearing it. There are 2 front pockets, hood and front zip.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xgCrzMJeiHawa8AKG1aGoH-cSEYOJlu_j8fNupXOOkUuqnhZxAn8FvvARkr4yTkYk1Uldnq8WO9wqbM6dEOv8tlQCErLVNLNryDbr4rFUECcbgtqJv6TUBVViZP9GgZ76epqfMuBvT9b/s1600/20160312_103634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xgCrzMJeiHawa8AKG1aGoH-cSEYOJlu_j8fNupXOOkUuqnhZxAn8FvvARkr4yTkYk1Uldnq8WO9wqbM6dEOv8tlQCErLVNLNryDbr4rFUECcbgtqJv6TUBVViZP9GgZ76epqfMuBvT9b/s320/20160312_103634.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Please feel free to grab a PDF copy <a href="https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B14Tp8R-671uVWc2WHMtN3ZzWm8/view?usp=sharing" target="_blank">HERE</a> and have a go (it is really free, no catch!) I made my version in Fleece with ribbed hem and cuffs but would love to see other versions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So thats it until next time......Happy Sewing!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-35184964921255084342016-03-16T19:21:00.001+00:002016-03-16T19:59:43.403+00:00My #Blazerof2016 is finished!<div style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Well there is one thing being so caught up with different sewing projects; not Blogging regularly! It only seems a day or two ago that I wrote my last post but it wasn't: Sorry.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I hope you are all still moving ahead nicely with your Blazer makes? Don't worry if you've not yet started as there is still loads of time. <a href="https://twitter.com/ooobop" target="_blank">@Ooobop</a> has made her toile for Mr Ooobop and shares it <a href="http://ooobop.com/blazerof2016-the-first-toile/" target="_blank">here</a>. Paul <a href="https://twitter.com/SewingMan4Men" target="_blank">@SewingMan4Men</a> has started his make and Di <a href="https://twitter.com/DiKendall" target="_blank">@DiKendall</a> has been tremendously busy, go and check out her <a href="http://www.sew-it.biz/sew-it-with-di-blog/4588727068/The-Savile-Row-Coat---Part-4/10581805" target="_blank">Saville Row Coat</a>! It has been so great to see other people have a go at this and can't wait to see all the finished Blazers. Perhaps we should all meet up for a photo shoot!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So my #Blazerof2016 challenge has come to the end, for me at least. I wanted to get the Blazer finished as I had somewhere special to wear it. Today I will discuss the lining and finishing touches before revealing my make.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My #Blazerof2016 pattern (Burda 7046) is a part lined Blazer and as I live in the UK I can't see why you would want only part of a lining. It is really easy to make a full lining as I will explain.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">You will use all the pattern pieces that you made the Blazer from to make the lining, with a few exceptions.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The back (lining) has to be cut a bit wider to allow for the insertion of Box Pleats. The box pleats give more ease across the shoulders and hips when the jacket is being worn.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Add 1 inch to the centre back seam of your pattern piece. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Don't worry about the darts (if you have them) as that will be taken care of later.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWVTdIIi0ihxQp8H5OoXcdcSj5EGlCMyqmc1M8lLS_gS6308ho7ChVsxBNFn0351qdIq3405JUl7Z8-EbIshA-uDr2WrS2be7GlZoFxVWeM2BUmc0ssc8poth_DWOg7Q7IRAlTldb6lKjE/s1600/20160219_114328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWVTdIIi0ihxQp8H5OoXcdcSj5EGlCMyqmc1M8lLS_gS6308ho7ChVsxBNFn0351qdIq3405JUl7Z8-EbIshA-uDr2WrS2be7GlZoFxVWeM2BUmc0ssc8poth_DWOg7Q7IRAlTldb6lKjE/s320/20160219_114328.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">You need to remove enough of the lining at the top so it will meet the neck facing. Place the facing pattern piece around the top of the back linings and add the pattern seam allowance. Note the CB seam is 1 inch wider.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcCjVTNpueGPfvqquC63TSOzua7AG0qweMxU6qBPvzEb4Zhk7EyhT2TAJfFkG26DptJARLKi30Lg_h7KUgsCFBMvrYNI6IxPO5-zAKxBeN4Jd753gFXvBrum9yHym3XrUhgpRFhFtboL8Z/s1600/20160219_114521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcCjVTNpueGPfvqquC63TSOzua7AG0qweMxU6qBPvzEb4Zhk7EyhT2TAJfFkG26DptJARLKi30Lg_h7KUgsCFBMvrYNI6IxPO5-zAKxBeN4Jd753gFXvBrum9yHym3XrUhgpRFhFtboL8Z/s320/20160219_114521.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now with RST sew the centre back seam with the patterns seam allowance.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwq1ik57Li47mUqVkNVjwq6WQ6XCdn6D8ZTHiZ3iI799dFN4Ix9SobKVnA0j4YSgCPEnYSl8u2a7KvRTQApOtyXzwLJ1Oizk11IPuBYaj1MKrkAkH57RET2MiOY9P5gHfwM7wE6fDGth3h/s1600/20160219_115537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwq1ik57Li47mUqVkNVjwq6WQ6XCdn6D8ZTHiZ3iI799dFN4Ix9SobKVnA0j4YSgCPEnYSl8u2a7KvRTQApOtyXzwLJ1Oizk11IPuBYaj1MKrkAkH57RET2MiOY9P5gHfwM7wE6fDGth3h/s320/20160219_115537.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next we add the box pleats. They are marked 1 inch further in from the seam line you just finished. The first pleat is marked from the top down approximately 4 inches then angled out towards the centre back seam edge.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNjaPpHmEZGlCBT922e57D4e4Tgiq90TlLjsYzpHURJmOoE8kAGlTTso6TpzQzLqwjoKgJFet0t7McrOr45dsiOBXkD_Io1ALTOn2f83Ieu9bG2cIWHuvyBVZZXE8TZ6XJfnfeTuXYM-Ti/s1600/20160219_115709.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNjaPpHmEZGlCBT922e57D4e4Tgiq90TlLjsYzpHURJmOoE8kAGlTTso6TpzQzLqwjoKgJFet0t7McrOr45dsiOBXkD_Io1ALTOn2f83Ieu9bG2cIWHuvyBVZZXE8TZ6XJfnfeTuXYM-Ti/s320/20160219_115709.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The second pleat is marked in a similar manner. This pleat should finish around the top of the hip and be roughly centred on the waistline.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdCxPnUdK5zz27qY-QjU9-9aicppFCqSQew3yMxbuhqbSc_UyUvWYSzRJRtlcsvKvq9cexGMziX1XypF8PFXDpQuMaxtk5MibZajSgM7yjxclQwRA8Tw3KqVSJpz18UJdXD0agt4GxeqNN/s1600/20160219_115714.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdCxPnUdK5zz27qY-QjU9-9aicppFCqSQew3yMxbuhqbSc_UyUvWYSzRJRtlcsvKvq9cexGMziX1XypF8PFXDpQuMaxtk5MibZajSgM7yjxclQwRA8Tw3KqVSJpz18UJdXD0agt4GxeqNN/s320/20160219_115714.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Finally the bottom pleat is an upside down version of the top pleat.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqCvzOTRVibIyd9ArBB8VjplK11cuiVTiR0uYjP74QrOfFBrWbP2IyzvRd00s25n5XzQJKG760UE2WRImjn9e2qIGr0P5niP8Q3Bj5cgBNeDzcml8qYbMWN_KWfReyv7vBoPBbkbvbOgn5/s1600/20160219_115719.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqCvzOTRVibIyd9ArBB8VjplK11cuiVTiR0uYjP74QrOfFBrWbP2IyzvRd00s25n5XzQJKG760UE2WRImjn9e2qIGr0P5niP8Q3Bj5cgBNeDzcml8qYbMWN_KWfReyv7vBoPBbkbvbOgn5/s320/20160219_115719.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now at this step you can loose any darts. My darts run to the bottom edge of the back so measure the width of one dart (at the bottom) and taper your last pleat (adding the dart width). If your jacket has no darts or fisheye darts, that don't run to the bottom edge, you don't need to adjust the pleat at the bottom! </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This picture might help!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-rL_LMlsSLEo7GXmmW4iPbBs-NWsu2jZmuRZOTKNEYjyqhtn6nYR4rxvDruIxD_EzNSr1ovtioPMOnsMR7ajs-4PieXKo6mJEz8u5BtzWAhsEVJ3KlUTIxyxOCPc6ELJRz2_ldGjOf2D/s1600/boxpleat-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV-rL_LMlsSLEo7GXmmW4iPbBs-NWsu2jZmuRZOTKNEYjyqhtn6nYR4rxvDruIxD_EzNSr1ovtioPMOnsMR7ajs-4PieXKo6mJEz8u5BtzWAhsEVJ3KlUTIxyxOCPc6ELJRz2_ldGjOf2D/s320/boxpleat-01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here is the finished back from the inside with pleats visible.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGsPbFdoU3-voXz5_1FCOQlxhLXzdWBehtv8kC4RU-4KVl8Fwly5QgyPaA0fBjOz4OfGxwJAMUSjeXgPSH-tAvgAcN2R7fBPHG38O1sAFRY48zyRUrfOHivuHiaz9C_4euWQ8ryZKF_GiI/s1600/20160219_120043.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGsPbFdoU3-voXz5_1FCOQlxhLXzdWBehtv8kC4RU-4KVl8Fwly5QgyPaA0fBjOz4OfGxwJAMUSjeXgPSH-tAvgAcN2R7fBPHG38O1sAFRY48zyRUrfOHivuHiaz9C_4euWQ8ryZKF_GiI/s320/20160219_120043.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; text-align: left;">The front pattern pieces also need a little adjustment and remove the facing size. Again be sure to add a seam allowance along the facing seam line.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHk8or4tQBadPYyk9coBZHNM9GJOFGl19o6XS8GPG00hBYmMe6QM53PpSKDIsjxHyop7qKslggMXYal4eUT_rbKaPgUB_spI1J-pMeGepGfgtVwmiQXlx9AeY3HaBFi1T47q-_ofn3BF0r/s1600/20160219_121337.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHk8or4tQBadPYyk9coBZHNM9GJOFGl19o6XS8GPG00hBYmMe6QM53PpSKDIsjxHyop7qKslggMXYal4eUT_rbKaPgUB_spI1J-pMeGepGfgtVwmiQXlx9AeY3HaBFi1T47q-_ofn3BF0r/s320/20160219_121337.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The rest of the lining is constructed as you did for the jacket. Again if the front contains darts that run to the bottom sew the side seam a little wider to accommodate.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now when it comes to attaching the lining I always do it the same way and will not bombard you with photos as it is easier to explain. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">With the jacket inside out, pin the lining RST along the facing. Start at the centre neck point (using the box pleat seam as centre mark) and pin around to the bottom of the facing. Now sew the lining on all around the facing stopping about 1 inch before the hem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Turn the jacket and pass the linings through the sleeves. Press the lining up at the hem and cuffs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I always HAND STITCH the lining bottom AND cuffs. Why? because I like to and I enjoy the last little bit of hand finish.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I use a small herringbone stitch to attach the lining as it allows for a little movement when the jacket is being worn. It also looks nice! Personally the hand finished lining suits me and I always feel a jacket wears better because of the extra 'give'.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I finished off with 3 buttonholes (<a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/lovely-button-holes-cheats-way.html" target="_blank">using my cheats method</a>) in a contrasting yellow thread.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So here it is in all resplendent glory in the spring sunshine along with a few detail shots.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Am I pleased with it? Yes. I enjoyed this make and I still have a few months to make another before the #Blazerof2016 finishes!!!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My aim in all this was not to create a truly authentic tailored garment but to show how some tailoring techniques and skills can be used to turn a commercial pattern into something a little more special. I'm really looking forward to what everyone else makes and I promise you will all see me wearing this Blazer soon enough!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">My next post will be a little bit of a mix and match....Some exciting news, A free pattern and more sewing related ramblings.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Until next time.......Happy sewing!</span></div>
Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-55084478144421035232016-03-05T21:54:00.001+00:002016-03-05T21:54:29.448+00:00#Blazerof2016 shoulder pads and sleeve head<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sorry for the delay in posting followers but I have been really busy!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So here we go and the final touches to the sleeve head and shoulders for my #Blazerof2016 challenge......</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So in the last post I had set in the sleeves and was ready for the shoulder pads. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCw-OyoRR_0II5meKBI9U8pu8-3h0r3BLbAOXGCEQw-qbXCKSJ6rX0h_8tQbkbBAKmIveSJ6jr_XulRrS2Zgov_2x42bUXajUvFMJ52ltmAEGss3pJSjfXMmyhKQyvgXgjaiX631yPa9yQ/s1600/20160205_190252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCw-OyoRR_0II5meKBI9U8pu8-3h0r3BLbAOXGCEQw-qbXCKSJ6rX0h_8tQbkbBAKmIveSJ6jr_XulRrS2Zgov_2x42bUXajUvFMJ52ltmAEGss3pJSjfXMmyhKQyvgXgjaiX631yPa9yQ/s320/20160205_190252.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now of course you don't need pads but a carefully made pair will really enhance the lines of the jacket and flatter the wearer. Long gone are the days of huge pads in the shoulder but unless you are going for the soft shoulder look (check out my Neapolitan Jacket make) a well constructed pair of shoulder pads will make all the difference. The pads and head roll you make will lift the sleeve cap level and form a lovely curve from the shoulder down the sleeve.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You can buy shoulder pads but be warned.....the majority are designed for women! (as are most patterns!) and are much narrower and much thicker/taller. So the solution is to make your own to suit. Men tend to have much longer shoulders (from neck to arm) more width (front to back) and they slope more than women!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Cut 4 pieces of muslin or similar lightweight material. I will put a copy of my pattern on the blog asap. Note the shape is not symmetrical but elongated. The longer tip will go at the back of the jacket.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3FpdP15WADjXxksfYBu082gM6N6ssy_BW9jzcI4zfF0URP3oxqjAoBs4sWSNuVi852vnSWsb2BJ3W33zefeewRoz_Nvgs6ICN6wbV3hZrZAyz-WbOza-UCHc9OX17vojzbaD1A6dEkVfe/s1600/20160218_193223.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3FpdP15WADjXxksfYBu082gM6N6ssy_BW9jzcI4zfF0URP3oxqjAoBs4sWSNuVi852vnSWsb2BJ3W33zefeewRoz_Nvgs6ICN6wbV3hZrZAyz-WbOza-UCHc9OX17vojzbaD1A6dEkVfe/s320/20160218_193223.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next cut some poly or cotton batting (wadding) to the same shape. The thickness isn't too important but 10-15mm should be about right.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOil-8jw4voPpuYh1igskpniukEmXRszVaVSgWLEEpCRm3ifSeNSX3PUrE1fky7hE_t3FT6t-RR7Y8Pc7PwjXJJV4T-mbie82VVfljrsLee0immJBSGpSq0cd1xXVaDqwve4i1YPfDEpny/s1600/20160218_193503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOil-8jw4voPpuYh1igskpniukEmXRszVaVSgWLEEpCRm3ifSeNSX3PUrE1fky7hE_t3FT6t-RR7Y8Pc7PwjXJJV4T-mbie82VVfljrsLee0immJBSGpSq0cd1xXVaDqwve4i1YPfDEpny/s320/20160218_193503.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Carefully start to stretch the batting (wadding) from the centre to the edges. You want to taper it until it is very thin at the edges but still the same initial thickness in the centre.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6CiqAYCC_TATBZ05E3IGNPy74NErGlna76xVcqHOZb-c8rR-USQ7Ct8JeQj0fKzUdjflzSd-okNXpWJZaVqpGZnz7fak3-gEBJm24QkvI6gqz-lnIoOITojlSkwGCx4AvG6RgqXiEvm-/s1600/20160218_193757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs6CiqAYCC_TATBZ05E3IGNPy74NErGlna76xVcqHOZb-c8rR-USQ7Ct8JeQj0fKzUdjflzSd-okNXpWJZaVqpGZnz7fak3-gEBJm24QkvI6gqz-lnIoOITojlSkwGCx4AvG6RgqXiEvm-/s320/20160218_193757.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next sandwich between two pieces of muslin.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKnoyikvjLdD1sLfN6GmzQplnOM3ZvbIn-tob9renSAkhSKO9D0DdxmbexRSU8dYNLoyZo7Goy9wP9cW_VNIPiMAYohG8Q_A0lIIi0e7wqDmwTOKo93qKbTLeGxMj8ecHug8R8IV3S-O_Q/s1600/20160218_193934.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKnoyikvjLdD1sLfN6GmzQplnOM3ZvbIn-tob9renSAkhSKO9D0DdxmbexRSU8dYNLoyZo7Goy9wP9cW_VNIPiMAYohG8Q_A0lIIi0e7wqDmwTOKo93qKbTLeGxMj8ecHug8R8IV3S-O_Q/s320/20160218_193934.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVIzg1bqY3yKmZjyLHtFi3XWlScTUq8-df3nc_uWwusgbj0k0qSbX-Nt13YUPaH6GC_RO0JU4AXBpv1nrhdNHxQ5rdHpRASOWJWbHsVm8iGmlngLMWdJGS7ggYLnpT7xPUfnR3JMZuCpj/s1600/20160218_194145.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguVIzg1bqY3yKmZjyLHtFi3XWlScTUq8-df3nc_uWwusgbj0k0qSbX-Nt13YUPaH6GC_RO0JU4AXBpv1nrhdNHxQ5rdHpRASOWJWbHsVm8iGmlngLMWdJGS7ggYLnpT7xPUfnR3JMZuCpj/s320/20160218_194145.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pin together and baste along the long curved edge and down the centre. DO NOT pull the thread tight! Trim the batting (wadding) to the same shape as the muslin.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwGFIrhft7fRL_1vKD4sTlKa1gXcorkdMSnjPatAKotPrYPgsIKFrvLL2_SDhBOZOewEPDre1U-cIRkfWFWDZ4BRJPeiN1peInyTyZEqxUl7bIDE43lxtA_kZ3Pa6pPH55TKMsaY3c81y/s1600/20160218_195531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEwGFIrhft7fRL_1vKD4sTlKa1gXcorkdMSnjPatAKotPrYPgsIKFrvLL2_SDhBOZOewEPDre1U-cIRkfWFWDZ4BRJPeiN1peInyTyZEqxUl7bIDE43lxtA_kZ3Pa6pPH55TKMsaY3c81y/s320/20160218_195531.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrh1rpIlV1RMESftvK_JuPcnzIb06bOjv21vvENtGxJgV-Uh20-vTX563Y7fKOcYzxjoh3OHheZA16z4UccxTRjy5IzAukphVpMmequEl_xPS8-YHpaTr2ZVgsoIh4OPv0lh9DA6DnmJu/s1600/20160218_195955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbrh1rpIlV1RMESftvK_JuPcnzIb06bOjv21vvENtGxJgV-Uh20-vTX563Y7fKOcYzxjoh3OHheZA16z4UccxTRjy5IzAukphVpMmequEl_xPS8-YHpaTr2ZVgsoIh4OPv0lh9DA6DnmJu/s320/20160218_195955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Pad stitch from the centre line towards the ends. Be gentle! Pulling the thread too tight will compress the pad. Pad stitch one side of the centre line then repeat for the other side.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOEgF1GZerZP5XhasmA-1JW7Pl57O3oiwFqiRG9qzdd66T54VE2cLD6bIsiJogTOxPCja-_4eUvd4ntF6c1pF6wERG-VmgNBm4rCHuKqLJeBUqGUdgrZd0C5okaiQa2dKsrPizdVOo5MC/s1600/20160218_201021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuOEgF1GZerZP5XhasmA-1JW7Pl57O3oiwFqiRG9qzdd66T54VE2cLD6bIsiJogTOxPCja-_4eUvd4ntF6c1pF6wERG-VmgNBm4rCHuKqLJeBUqGUdgrZd0C5okaiQa2dKsrPizdVOo5MC/s320/20160218_201021.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As you pad stitch the shoulder pad will start to curve. Take your time and constantly trial fit to the jacket. If the pad is too pronounced tighten your stitches.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next cut a length of fabric long enough to go around the top of the sleeve. From middle front to middle back. Cut the fabric around 75mm wide.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNOTS-_WwaWxU2QhMuZ7JM1AJ5SNLxOZPYGSBhUImYAZ-o1LKPjzLz3XqZ57FABwawwyKV4AP8nJlK1yAvZq2RB1cmO6jwRz4R_j_XOdUyuNkHKSzEAgX4vTFOjV9_CAqEsro3NLDu8_Jh/s1600/20160218_204746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNOTS-_WwaWxU2QhMuZ7JM1AJ5SNLxOZPYGSBhUImYAZ-o1LKPjzLz3XqZ57FABwawwyKV4AP8nJlK1yAvZq2RB1cmO6jwRz4R_j_XOdUyuNkHKSzEAgX4vTFOjV9_CAqEsro3NLDu8_Jh/s320/20160218_204746.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now roll the cut fabric tightly and insert into the top of the sleeve (on the outside of the seam line) Make sure the jacket is turned inside out! </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stitch the roll of fabric to the seam allowances. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiteiJAMmRar2DGeHLneGZ9lPpL8JKos5TRPs_tBZ3aJEHzbJD-5endYgnHuqHe2P-aqM8e0sIcjCrfUWf9y7uDJ4mH9wA1ekn3mKTSv6xeETiYJ8RazGdsAiyW-pLQrqEXMdgq4nRV6PJg/s1600/20160218_205345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiteiJAMmRar2DGeHLneGZ9lPpL8JKos5TRPs_tBZ3aJEHzbJD-5endYgnHuqHe2P-aqM8e0sIcjCrfUWf9y7uDJ4mH9wA1ekn3mKTSv6xeETiYJ8RazGdsAiyW-pLQrqEXMdgq4nRV6PJg/s320/20160218_205345.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Stitch the roll of fabric to the seam allowances and baste the shoulder pad in place. REMEMBER to put the pad on upside down so when you turn the jacket back the right way the pad will be curved correctly!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Try the jacket on and see what it looks like. If the shoulder pads are obvious too big (high) then tighten the pad stitches a little. The important thing is when the jacket is being worn, the shoulders look level. We are all a bit different so it is a little trial and error.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Before pads and roll fitted</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil80zucQdOL8eNToLVN5zPG5-EBCR9T6Tbtu7l1uwfBLWBQagq_iE3FJt42xlslGyzcVWQxSkOFLKn06LhN3Md87ZOCeX_cKhOpBiFcOJk0bZbGzZAS4PmmtUQ3ZfSBFfg_PkEayTP_shH/s1600/20160218_201612.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil80zucQdOL8eNToLVN5zPG5-EBCR9T6Tbtu7l1uwfBLWBQagq_iE3FJt42xlslGyzcVWQxSkOFLKn06LhN3Md87ZOCeX_cKhOpBiFcOJk0bZbGzZAS4PmmtUQ3ZfSBFfg_PkEayTP_shH/s320/20160218_201612.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdoJqGhzQlS37gKm9Otd59ipXOtwHrSg-hvfwHwCowNB9tSiYZEjvtxMxMjoifJTh6vHtVzXQhSJiC3lsIgezH-HCvt-Ud-OuP7Wnjd3aYqfhR23VUb8Bcfpf5Ux8FGWJncMAir-K5ja_/s1600/20160218_201513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGdoJqGhzQlS37gKm9Otd59ipXOtwHrSg-hvfwHwCowNB9tSiYZEjvtxMxMjoifJTh6vHtVzXQhSJiC3lsIgezH-HCvt-Ud-OuP7Wnjd3aYqfhR23VUb8Bcfpf5Ux8FGWJncMAir-K5ja_/s320/20160218_201513.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">*Note the photos were taken with jacket on the mannequin not on me!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It takes time but well worth it. When you are happy carefully sew the pads in place (by hand) along the arm seam allowance and at the shoulder seam allowance.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Right thats it for tonight......Next up is the lining and finishing touches before the reveal!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Until next time.......Happy sewing</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-67302160359914909672016-02-12T22:48:00.001+00:002016-02-12T22:48:43.487+00:00Sleeve setting time in the #Blazerof2016 challenge<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hello again readers, so time for an update on the #Blazerof2016 make. In the last post I had finished the lapels and collar ready for the sleeves.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The sleeves are a two part sleeve, with upper and under sleeve and have non opening cuffs. There are buttonholes and buttons for show!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So cut your pieces and carefully mark the wrong sides. Remember with a 2 part sleeve they are 'handed' so one for the left and one for the right! I have made the mistake of not taking notice and ending up with 2 left sleeves! Don't make the same mistake!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now as the sleeves have 'fake' button/holes mark them on the upper sleeve as instructed on the pattern (the upper is the bigger part of the sleeve)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpJ2jVjSTf5NT4UFfnIfqGpemAWXN1G2EIXWkmAQPP6vad9Hhlb-3h1pDx-giPPek6NshdvRcX7SHHxVUhucD3xY2tnAYGbO6tWqKzriSpNZNO4cP2ohLl0iGMx0yVfLPowGpNQCGefkQ/s1600/20160205_102205.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIpJ2jVjSTf5NT4UFfnIfqGpemAWXN1G2EIXWkmAQPP6vad9Hhlb-3h1pDx-giPPek6NshdvRcX7SHHxVUhucD3xY2tnAYGbO6tWqKzriSpNZNO4cP2ohLl0iGMx0yVfLPowGpNQCGefkQ/s320/20160205_102205.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I then stitched the 3 buttonholes by machine. After setting the button holes press well to get rid of the wrinkles (not yet done here!)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVq8JcW4apW8i6P4V68h00e6FTJ3aobq1xPEnJvMNlvqRmSQtxviLliO8CLfgKrVY-pnon3UT-Urx8ZtonlQyZZDpxBG1QmlvyyPEJIaDGqau_C86QKQ23f632oVwF3FsujPUEWFwivTYN/s1600/20160205_102939.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVq8JcW4apW8i6P4V68h00e6FTJ3aobq1xPEnJvMNlvqRmSQtxviLliO8CLfgKrVY-pnon3UT-Urx8ZtonlQyZZDpxBG1QmlvyyPEJIaDGqau_C86QKQ23f632oVwF3FsujPUEWFwivTYN/s320/20160205_102939.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next sew the under and upper sleeve together, clip seams and press seam open.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWL1CvenTcqWCgRBTIO9S8OVF3-KImsfSV0f9MiyeBDrX6Of7c7o8OW1w0IXqBWcjP1S62mGmdDzK44Bo44a1hI4-EqUVyaHw1SUgiexmKlRsmHpX4ZvRj7ixd8ypJB5PkPRwoGY27dsM/s1600/20160205_163819.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieWL1CvenTcqWCgRBTIO9S8OVF3-KImsfSV0f9MiyeBDrX6Of7c7o8OW1w0IXqBWcjP1S62mGmdDzK44Bo44a1hI4-EqUVyaHw1SUgiexmKlRsmHpX4ZvRj7ixd8ypJB5PkPRwoGY27dsM/s320/20160205_163819.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Then I attached the buttons. (I don't like button thread coming through the lining so I do it now)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBJWiHU7Hf9tUsM5t2ekU8UVa-UXixOtovbJCjV-yt2647KUATrXh68vP6ihHDDLXtYrSc3yEGnBqK-scMTjSL9l5gong_uMLnouJvoHHcIh4ws82c_DxotXpXVItbAr4K8KleUiZdAaxr/s1600/20160205_170253.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBJWiHU7Hf9tUsM5t2ekU8UVa-UXixOtovbJCjV-yt2647KUATrXh68vP6ihHDDLXtYrSc3yEGnBqK-scMTjSL9l5gong_uMLnouJvoHHcIh4ws82c_DxotXpXVItbAr4K8KleUiZdAaxr/s320/20160205_170253.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You will note the green thread in my bottom button. I always use a different colour for button or button hole on my left sleeve (my little 'trademark)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next mark a line around the sleeve head. Start about 2in from the bottom of the sleeve curve. The pattern will say to do it on the seam line or just inside. I always mark mine about 1/4 inch past the seam line. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_0TulzaE0OPvrVv043xerjR0VdcgBtGxaHcuLgAIeN7pRwsgRUPVe7Q6Sr9gBtinVhddrZKb3qKowLs8lL8Pv5ocmjSY-Y_KM1dW43RPq7MC31-tV7Q-c1tnf8L-WuydlLdlbspDclH3/s1600/20160205_164017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU_0TulzaE0OPvrVv043xerjR0VdcgBtGxaHcuLgAIeN7pRwsgRUPVe7Q6Sr9gBtinVhddrZKb3qKowLs8lL8Pv5ocmjSY-Y_KM1dW43RPq7MC31-tV7Q-c1tnf8L-WuydlLdlbspDclH3/s320/20160205_164017.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now stitch a long running stitch along this line. Use the longest stitch on your machine. Take the bobbin thread and carefully pull to gather the fabric. Now sew the other seam on the sleeve. This is the time to check which sleeve is LH or RH. Turn right side out and you will see. If you are not sure slip the sleeve onto your arm!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOtFaDKyTxmDX2ZEDgdbkkg8AY6Ql-HzvcXCjdtPY8jW5xpKn6Ja74wCsKjvTH8t-0-t5FZ_62VQAYPMURtpfxxC6nwjJQ-alkJEwUST22W6E2AnjEQWUkUJNcR8jq3YQ77WuUeYrdt3ox/s1600/20160205_184127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOtFaDKyTxmDX2ZEDgdbkkg8AY6Ql-HzvcXCjdtPY8jW5xpKn6Ja74wCsKjvTH8t-0-t5FZ_62VQAYPMURtpfxxC6nwjJQ-alkJEwUST22W6E2AnjEQWUkUJNcR8jq3YQ77WuUeYrdt3ox/s320/20160205_184127.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here you can see the gathered sleeve on the right compared to the un-gathered. When gathered, use steam on you iron (lots of steam!) and shrink the gathered sleeve head slightly. (Don't touch the iron on the cloth just pass steam over it)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now the tricky part (well actually it isn't that bad). Turn the sleeve the right way out and turn the jacket inside out. Put the sleeve in the hole of the jacket, matching notches and seams as instructed (with LH sleeve in LH side of jacket and RH sleeve in RH jacket hole! Remember the jacket is inside out!!!). Pin well and baste in place.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-7dmmiDYXRyPg5BzvjJOGbk3kkDaIq_JAnU6qkvUb0yWAuIPlZLvmPc87Q0vlRxS2hsxw39uoDtabBLxVlfz5UMTdcm10BYcPQXa5bA8Kuc5BJZpiVZ2N9YNJX-1iPiPxV6eyFH3AVIM/s1600/20160205_190119.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgX-7dmmiDYXRyPg5BzvjJOGbk3kkDaIq_JAnU6qkvUb0yWAuIPlZLvmPc87Q0vlRxS2hsxw39uoDtabBLxVlfz5UMTdcm10BYcPQXa5bA8Kuc5BJZpiVZ2N9YNJX-1iPiPxV6eyFH3AVIM/s320/20160205_190119.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now sew carefully around the sleeve/arm hole. Take your time and keep everything smooth and flat.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Clip the seams and turn the jacket back right way. Admire your work! Well done! Now repeat for the other sleeve.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4WR63zZzsxj0oAcGal30XWZz4352N8al5vlZDyW_nfw62BG1Uqahdqo_M20YvZGb23K64AxLkfBu0W4sglEtO5hPw5mSlninsqTxUqN-ZLQNvFwxHVGbHjKrBpcGvkTEwf5C8ZSXFM_dE/s1600/20160205_190252.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4WR63zZzsxj0oAcGal30XWZz4352N8al5vlZDyW_nfw62BG1Uqahdqo_M20YvZGb23K64AxLkfBu0W4sglEtO5hPw5mSlninsqTxUqN-ZLQNvFwxHVGbHjKrBpcGvkTEwf5C8ZSXFM_dE/s320/20160205_190252.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Remove the gathering stitches you made earlier.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2tXkGuw-Yw5yQZlvPOFU2sNRAgBstDAEwEtxZT-v4ZOYGAIMj3JxWJ60zHy4sLghYu5oayXu9SPfgn7G8djFETBAtsbM-v53j_kVljA26xoQj4dACQfQHEMT7eJ5Zr6wCB-8rOvwS6s9/s1600/20160205_191228.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV2tXkGuw-Yw5yQZlvPOFU2sNRAgBstDAEwEtxZT-v4ZOYGAIMj3JxWJ60zHy4sLghYu5oayXu9SPfgn7G8djFETBAtsbM-v53j_kVljA26xoQj4dACQfQHEMT7eJ5Zr6wCB-8rOvwS6s9/s320/20160205_191228.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You will notice that I matched the yellow stripe (I discussed how i pattern matched in an earlier post) but I moved the sleeve down so the black/red stripe contrasted with the jacket. This was intentional! I wanted the sleeves to show but wanted the pattern to match (if that makes sense!!??)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Right next post we will tackle the sleeve head, homemade shoulder pads and roll for the cap.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Until next time....Happy sewing</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-46671146494186536402016-02-06T23:02:00.000+00:002016-02-06T23:02:13.111+00:00#Blazerof2016 Collar and Lapels<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">If you have followed me this far with the #Blazerof2016 challenge you will know how things stand...If not look <u><a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/sew-menswear-blazerof2016-challenge.html" target="_blank">here</a></u> (for the challenge), <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/blazerof2016-update-and-other-ramblings.html" target="_blank"><u>here</u> </a>(for part 1 of the make) and <u><a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/hand-sewing-structure-blazerof2016.html" target="_blank">here</a></u> (for the last update!)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Last time the jacket was ready for the facings, upper-collar and lapels so here we go....</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You should have a jacket with under-collar attached</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBIRtm5ppSJexs3nsq0NoLy-nElo7nBcWOvtnMNhzMp1PpfeDluo5lon2VALjo8Aps8yl5tkXSlGBt0DkfIwt_8gmnoWYuAImCZCvvAI0QtKUEgpvWJcrXeoEXQ35e7pniaFaQtwCC3Kg1/s1600/20160203_204158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBIRtm5ppSJexs3nsq0NoLy-nElo7nBcWOvtnMNhzMp1PpfeDluo5lon2VALjo8Aps8yl5tkXSlGBt0DkfIwt_8gmnoWYuAImCZCvvAI0QtKUEgpvWJcrXeoEXQ35e7pniaFaQtwCC3Kg1/s320/20160203_204158.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next sew the front facings (RST) to the collar facing (If you are unsure as to how they go together match the seam markings and all will become clear!)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR8eALKizMjqwbZN0J5PTf2ddVKTadAjXA4EWjXChhOBfiEbrd_jV1RUo4lSjZTM8WZVb-yj5DzjT7ImXaM5aG0-olvVOaJjyBlU9qFKeBm_rrfRlnV72grYlEhM4OtWY-C88kPqhuu9Mm/s1600/20160204_135207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR8eALKizMjqwbZN0J5PTf2ddVKTadAjXA4EWjXChhOBfiEbrd_jV1RUo4lSjZTM8WZVb-yj5DzjT7ImXaM5aG0-olvVOaJjyBlU9qFKeBm_rrfRlnV72grYlEhM4OtWY-C88kPqhuu9Mm/s320/20160204_135207.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Attach the upper collar (as your pattern instructs) in this case exactly as you attached the under-collar to the jacket. Baste well, check, double check then sew in place.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Fa6BnTaaKJSM2lgz2zMqKpBNgWIM6IR2MSVl-ekFWB8IDtS1EvFeT_s7tKzw1iX3BJzFwTq6fmKfbArrEhw3i3Stgg4muXqHi36myvmexTmF1Mj-lxUZpP0unGkNmfxdb2QgLA1n0B2R/s1600/20160204_142653.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Fa6BnTaaKJSM2lgz2zMqKpBNgWIM6IR2MSVl-ekFWB8IDtS1EvFeT_s7tKzw1iX3BJzFwTq6fmKfbArrEhw3i3Stgg4muXqHi36myvmexTmF1Mj-lxUZpP0unGkNmfxdb2QgLA1n0B2R/s320/20160204_142653.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Clip seams, trim and press open.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next carefully pin the upper-collar to under-collar (RST). The Upper is cut slightly larger than the under so ease the fabric into place and match all edges and markings. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now Baste together!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBEYBTAwCo674SMGLFEkJA077BpPWfOacop5KO4cg9UQpgFV7xMeSZWFspodOYBGXzQ0FMYZGZigrqOR9GSH4UBZb7ek25OdYC-7_NPBjekQBqe9j5zzbo79Ew90WYRLFQusxjphU_y6c9/s1600/20160204_144026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBEYBTAwCo674SMGLFEkJA077BpPWfOacop5KO4cg9UQpgFV7xMeSZWFspodOYBGXzQ0FMYZGZigrqOR9GSH4UBZb7ek25OdYC-7_NPBjekQBqe9j5zzbo79Ew90WYRLFQusxjphU_y6c9/s320/20160204_144026.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sew the collar all the way around. Sew from the seam where it joins the lapel around to the other lapel seam. Take your time!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now pin the facing to the jacket lapel. Ensure the under and upper collar pieces are in line at the front.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZrYCyi0fNvPTyerIJNIYyB-5yoB6EaZOp6ijyYZQ03OJS_PtROwz_w3DhLWyd5966L7yKeOQjt__pcMCo7YU3hu22vf4OowRIJni-_IjmkTM96kQBSOQJceEjJabp3ePmDx53ESh6c0Wn/s1600/20160204_144102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZrYCyi0fNvPTyerIJNIYyB-5yoB6EaZOp6ijyYZQ03OJS_PtROwz_w3DhLWyd5966L7yKeOQjt__pcMCo7YU3hu22vf4OowRIJni-_IjmkTM96kQBSOQJceEjJabp3ePmDx53ESh6c0Wn/s320/20160204_144102.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There should be plenty of ease in the facing (where my hand is in the picture) as if not the facing will pull on the jacket hem when finished. This pulls the hem up and inwards towards your body, looking horrible! If the facing is tight then move it a little to give the ease. It doesn't matter if the seam edges don't exactly line up!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl480TV6DOgSCNeqpFSrYmYggJq_W2YJEj8pOA7sglc2RgT17zpSGttoAetQX43WKARQF_gddtp4uzU6g7PAZEv2hD8cztuzRec91zY-ZQPUDCUexfTj7iSQ_j6YNRzZSWEhF3e7_rFsYM/s1600/20160204_145440.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl480TV6DOgSCNeqpFSrYmYggJq_W2YJEj8pOA7sglc2RgT17zpSGttoAetQX43WKARQF_gddtp4uzU6g7PAZEv2hD8cztuzRec91zY-ZQPUDCUexfTj7iSQ_j6YNRzZSWEhF3e7_rFsYM/s320/20160204_145440.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now baste the facing all the way around. Fold the facing and jacket seams back together over the collar. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho2YVWLp3rkWP-o8GWIFDc_EA-TgI7c3e8RyLoKVgvh7FbNlmYcb753iQQflQwFtg5ZIeOKb7iqnq-9xXFIJh8bKVHk95NAWEUc7QUGEEinAfanBfIJ5NpsdpUkKDxfCGxZ2Rer_MKCV7t/s1600/20160204_150009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho2YVWLp3rkWP-o8GWIFDc_EA-TgI7c3e8RyLoKVgvh7FbNlmYcb753iQQflQwFtg5ZIeOKb7iqnq-9xXFIJh8bKVHk95NAWEUc7QUGEEinAfanBfIJ5NpsdpUkKDxfCGxZ2Rer_MKCV7t/s320/20160204_150009.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After checking, and double checking sew the facing to the jacket. Start where the collar stitch line ends and sew around to the hem (don't sew the collar- pull it out of the way a little). Now clip all curved seams and turn the facings to the inside. Press well and enjoy a nice cup of tea! Now it does look like a jacket!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">You should hand sew the collar pieces together at this stage to stop the under and upper from moving. Sew a backstitch in the seam where they join the facing/jacket.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now Baste the lapels to the jacket. It just stops everything getting messed up later!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQf3XCCYFqVjKFKfnerV9kgidgwnjKVbnaA682OVKxJsxsxIKk_FT7AKIUs6ziRlvX0Rd7MmRqrsL13QTPJi6WOvBg_I-AaZrGKlRPjhrf1nnA620JLJHL0zT2vLT7Ke-r8Yw83FZLiR2/s1600/20160205_161517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmQf3XCCYFqVjKFKfnerV9kgidgwnjKVbnaA682OVKxJsxsxIKk_FT7AKIUs6ziRlvX0Rd7MmRqrsL13QTPJi6WOvBg_I-AaZrGKlRPjhrf1nnA620JLJHL0zT2vLT7Ke-r8Yw83FZLiR2/s320/20160205_161517.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Finally press the hem (finishing the curve at the front of the jacket) and Baste in place.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So next comes the sleeves! I will leave that until the next post but here is a quick 'selfie' of the fit. Happy so far</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Until next time.....Happy sewing!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-44655347113995567632016-02-03T22:45:00.001+00:002016-02-06T23:17:42.733+00:00Hand sewing structure! #Blazerof2016<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Hello again! Two posts in a week! Aren't you lucky? <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/02/blazerof2016-update-and-other-ramblings.html" target="_blank">Last time</a> I showed you the basic construction of my </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">#Blazerof2016 jacket. Namely cutting the fabric, a bit of iron-working and sewing the major components together.</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> So I have now moved on to the 'scary' bit! The collar and lapels. Sewing a good collar in a jacket strikes fear into many...indeed I still dread this step on occasion. Actually it is not difficult, it just takes good preparation and time. Oh also a bit of hand sewing..... In fact my fingers have had a good deal of exercise today with so much hand sewing (see I said sewing by hand was good for you!)</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So the observant of you will see that the front of my jacket has now been covered in rows of pretty basting stitches.....</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The reason, of course, is to hold the interfacing in place. Now a tailored jacket has a multitude of interfacing components, adding structure, shape and weight. I am not a tailor, just an amateur sewist who likes to make tailored things, so I will show you my (easier) method of getting the tailored look.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Cut a nice piece of woven canvas fabric: (nice soft and flexible). Use the front pattern piece as a guide but cut away from shoulder, through breast to hem (make a nice gentle curve).</span><br />
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Carefully baste the canvas to the inside of the front fabric. Take your time and use loose unequal basting stitches. Remember it needs to conform to the shape of the wearer! The canvas will 'float' between the fabric and lining. It will only be held to the structure along the front edge of the jacket and across the shoulders. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So go ahead and sew the canvas to the seam of the front shoulder. I use a nice small hand sewn backstitch.<br />
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Although it is a little tricky, I find that after sewing the canvas to the shoulder, put the jacket on the mannequin or model (the right way out!) and get the canvas in place underneath. Then baste to the curve of the front (very carefully if being worn by a human!). Don't worry if it doesn't line up exactly on the front edge but make sure it sits well against the body. Now turn the jacket inside out and mark the seam line on the canvas (from lapel corner to bottom hem line). Also mark the roll line (the line where the lapel rolls over) and you will have drawn a triangle shape at the top of the lapel (this is important!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the last post I discussed the merits of hand stitching and I am going to introduce you to another hand sewn stitch.....</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Pad stitch. This is a stitch you may not have come across but is invaluable in many tailored items. The pad stitch is normally used to hold interfacing material to the fabric and allow shape to be created. In a jacket, for example there will normally be one or more layers of interfacing material to give shape to the front, lapels and collar. The lapels and collar in particular would be Pad stitched allowing you to join the layers of fabric and interfacing, creating shape and, if done well, you won't even notice the stitches.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The stitch pattern forms a diagonal with the needle passing through the fabric parallel to the previous. Here I have started at the top and worked down. The needle is taking around 1cm through the fabric, just catching the layer below.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next row of Pad stitches are then worked from bottom to top in the same manner. Repeat until the Pad stitched area is complete.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now you drew a nice triangle on your canvas at the top of the lapel. This will be Pad stitched. Pick a suitable colour thread to be as inconspicuous as possible on the fabric. After practice your stitches will not even show but don't worry too much because these stitches will be hidden when the lapel is rolled over. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The best way to start is to lay the jacket down on a table with the lapel roll line you drew along the edge of the table.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now start to pad stitch. (It doesn't matter which end you start and don't worry how precise you are!). Keep the Pad stitching in line with the roll line. The aim is to just catch the fabric under the canvas so the stitches are invisible. (It does take time and practice but go for it)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stitch 2 rows with the jacket hanging over the edge of the table.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> put the jacket on the table with the lapel rolled over. (notice how it is starting to curve?)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Continue to Pad stitch until you fill the triangle. I will say again...don't worry about how perfect these stitches are! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Here you can see the left (RHS of jacket) sits beautifully against the jacket (Pad stitched side) whilst the other side flaps around and curls over!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Next you need some 1/4inch cotton twill tape. Any colour you like (I only had black)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The tape is sewn (again by hand) down the roll line (keep the tape edge against the inside of the line you drew) and around the lapel (again with the tape edge on the inside of the line). Repeat for other side.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Continue sewing the tape along the front seam line around the curve at the hem and along for a few inches (Along hem line). Leave plenty of ease in the tape as you go around the hem curve. Try to sew the tape to the canvas only, not through to the fabric.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Trim away the canvas to the tape line (we don't want to add unnecessary bulk to the seams) and voila!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now it is time for the collar. The jacket collar consists of an Under-collar and Upper-collar. The Under-collar is attached to the jacket whereas the Upper-collar is attached to the facings, which are then attached to the jacket! Confused yet?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So Under-collar....I have cut my Under-collar in Melton fabric: A wool that feels like felt. It is quite expensive and you don't need much but I happened to have some spare. You can always use good quality felt which is much cheaper. To be honest I have used felt before without any problems. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Cut the same in canvas material and cut off the seam allowance. Baste to wrong side of Under-collar.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now Pad stitch time again! Start at the centre and work towards the tip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">See how the Pad stitched side is beginning to curve...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now repeat for the other side and complete.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now I am not going into detail as to how you should join the Under-collar to the jacket. There are a multitude of different ways so follow your pattern. Just check everything ten times before sewing! If it looks wrong then it probably is! Measure everything and take your time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Under-collar attached, seams clipped and trimmed and pressed.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">See the nice roll of the collar and lapel? (note lapel and collar joining edge is pressed over canvas ready for next step)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Well thats all for today. Hope your #Blazerof2016 is going well? Next we will tackle the facings, Upper-collar and hem.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Until next time.....Happy sewing</span></div>
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</span>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-55692465040322339622016-02-01T22:11:00.001+00:002016-02-01T22:11:24.462+00:00#Blazerof2016 update and other ramblings<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Hello my loyal followers. In my <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/sew-menswear-blazerof2016-challenge.html" target="_blank">last post</a> I introduced you to the <a href="https://twitter.com/search?q=%23blazerof2016&src=typd" target="_blank">#Blazerof2016</a> challenge. Well I am pleased to see so many people taking up the challenge and having a go at sewing some menswear. If you haven't yet plucked up courage to take part you still have plenty of time. <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2016/01/sew-menswear-blazerof2016-challenge.html" target="_blank">Details are here</a>. I have made a start with my #Blazerof2016 and after a lot of procrastination picked the fabric. A medium-weight cotton/wool blend.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwVaBg-0OQkNpvxGJlWNEC6ycw_ZJzSoZMYeofrVPq48CASsp4vOYpI5StOSx5tDWYxlAYzusJ78wueBO_0VLPH3LS7FaBcOFrbSpuOMkFSMLUATHGTRFxmQVZsjx_wMhZsN6n8Ot63vez/s1600/20160127_234446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwVaBg-0OQkNpvxGJlWNEC6ycw_ZJzSoZMYeofrVPq48CASsp4vOYpI5StOSx5tDWYxlAYzusJ78wueBO_0VLPH3LS7FaBcOFrbSpuOMkFSMLUATHGTRFxmQVZsjx_wMhZsN6n8Ot63vez/s320/20160127_234446.jpg" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now before I show you my progress I wanted to have a little chat about 'Hand Sewing'.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">"Why sew by hand?" I hear you cry. Well lets be honest....You won't really be able to sew clothing properly without a little bit of hand sewing. I think it is often over-looked and, I myself, was guilty of skipping the 'sew-by-hand' part in many pattern instructions when I started sewing. I used to try and do everything by machine, alas not very successfully!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">For those of you taking the #Blazerof2016 challenge, this may get you thinking about how much you sew by hand; as sewing a more 'tailored' item certainly calls for more hand sewing.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'll start with a few of the most basic but important hand stitches you should know that I have used for the first stage of my #Blazerof2016 challenge.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">1. The <b>Basting</b> stitch. You will not find many patterns that don't ask you to 'Baste' at some point during construction and this has to be the one stitch that most people omit: Yes basting takes time but it will certainly save you time in the long run. The basting stitch is a temporary 'building' stitch to join 2 or more pieces of fabric together before sewing permanently. After permanent sewing the basting stitch can be simply pulled out of the fabric. In fact the word 'Baste' comes from the word 'Bastir' meaning 'to build'. Basting is particularly important to hold fabric together when sewing complex shapes such as curved seams.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The basting stitch is a simple 'running' stitch and can be equal or unequal. In the equal stitch the length of stitch and gap between each stitch are the same size (roughly a quarter of an inch) and allows for good control when holding the fabrics together; especially curved seams, when setting in sleeves and attaching collars.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-MF2NvVsokzqBKHFcNoCfMCKqLUNj5kxFg5JUolQ1OPT3NFpVkvm9VLdvOGPUxHiwavgabVazo47ygHvVXQYOjn_t40ifN9gmgTC4TPAq7hBTwUOzWo0t-ZfawnuOetLbf0ifx4QFgia/s1600/P1000103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhT-MF2NvVsokzqBKHFcNoCfMCKqLUNj5kxFg5JUolQ1OPT3NFpVkvm9VLdvOGPUxHiwavgabVazo47ygHvVXQYOjn_t40ifN9gmgTC4TPAq7hBTwUOzWo0t-ZfawnuOetLbf0ifx4QFgia/s320/P1000103.JPG" width="320" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The unequal basting stitch is made by taking short stitches through the fabric (same as above) then leaving a much larger gap before taking the next stitch. The method offers less fabric control than the equal basting stitch but is good for holding less complex fabric shapes together or to just keep things in place. This photo show the equal stitch with the unequal stitch below for comparison. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">2. The <b>Backstitch</b> is a permanent, very strong stitch and comes in two varieties; the half backstitch and full backstitch. Unlike a running stitch or the basting stitch you can only sew one stitch at a time. For the half backstitch, start by making a stitch through the fabric. Start from behind, come up then down (the desired stitch length) then come back up at <i>double the stitch length</i> you just did and pull the needle and thread through. Now insert the needle half way between where you just came up and the previous stitch and back up through at double the stitch length. Now repeat. (Being right handed I am sewing from R to L in my photos.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The full backstitch is created in exactly the same manner as the previous stitch except you stitch back the full length of the gap. In other words start the next stitch at the end of the previous stitch then come back through at double the distance.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The completed full backstitch (when done well) can look like machine stitches.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So back to my #Blazerof2016 make. I decided to use the Burda 7046 pattern for this challenge as it is a nicely shaped, slim fit jacket. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now I know some of you will be wondering about pattern matching with the fabric I chose... I decided to ensure that horizontally the pattern matched by using the centre most shorten/lengthen line printed on the pattern. This line was placed along a yellow stripe. The grainline marking on the pattern was placed along a green stripe.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now the other problem is that we often cut pieces with the fabric folded. Making sure the pattern matches on the folded fabric is a nightmare so I cut each piece individually. (just remember to flip each pattern piece over after cutting the first piece!) Yes it did take longer but I could be assured the pattern on each piece was identically placed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The next step is a little bit of iron work. What am I talking about? Iron-working is the process of stretching and shrinking your pattern pieces (using an iron!) to get some shape. Unlike womenswear, that has a myriad of darts and shaped seams, menswear is a little more 'boxy' Yep get the iron out and start shaping the pattern pieces before sewing them together. This might be something new to you but is well worth having a go and with practice it'll become second nature. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This is how I generally iron-work a jacket.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">To shrink use lots of steam, little pressure and move the iron around in ever decreasing circles. To stretch use a little less steam but more pressure to pull/stretch the fabric. The idea is to shape the fabric pieces in the 3rd dimension but ensure they stay the same overall shape as the original pattern. Essentially you are aiming to stretch the fabric a little over the chest, shoulders and side seams. The shrinking 'areas' will compensate for the stretch and keep the pattern shape the same. Give it a go and you will be surprised at the better fit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Right back seam was <b>Basted</b> to check pattern match then sewn (note the nice ease across the shoulder from iron-working?)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The fronts have a full length dart (From chest to hem) again <b>Baste</b> first to check the pattern lines up before sewing!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I added welt pockets as per my <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/tutorial-weltjetted-pocket.html" target="_blank">tutorial</a> and these were hand-stitched using a full back stitch. This method ensures the stitching is completely hidden in the welt/fabric join. A bias cut pocket flap was also added. (Note I placed the pockets an inch higher than the pattern suggests). I opted for the contrasting bias cut flap as the front dart would make pattern matching nearly impossible!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The pattern does not have a chest pocket but I wanted one. Simple: I cut a welt on the bias and added the pocket. (I will write a tutorial on this for my next post). The chest pocket is placed 1.5 inches from the arm seam line and aligned with the front sleeve notch. Again this was all hand sewn except the lining!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Next the side panel was sewn to the back and fronts (basted to check pattern match again!) and the shoulder seams sewn. Now the iron-working you did on the shoulder seams means they fit beautifully without having to 'ease' the back seam in place.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So thats where I am so far. Next will be the canvas interfacing for the fronts and I will introduce you to the wonderful <b>Pad</b> stitch technique!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In other news.....January has seen me appear in 2 sewing magazines! Yes at the beginning of the month I had a 2 page spread in '<a href="http://www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/learn-to-sew/sewing-news/item/388-sewing-made-simple" target="_blank">Sewing made Simple</a>'. I was asked to write an article on menswear patterns and have had a lot of positive feedback; hopefully more people will start sewing menswear?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I also appeared in '<a href="http://www.lovesewingmag.co.uk/" target="_blank">Love Sewing</a>' magazine with the running jacket make I made as part of the <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/post/a-new-years-resolution-" target="_blank">Minerva Crafts Bloggers network</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So January is over and it has been pretty busy all round; even Harry, who turned 1 last week, is getting interested in sewing! </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Until next time......Happy Sewing</span></div>
<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-76623964648495222302016-01-16T16:00:00.001+00:002016-01-16T16:00:08.124+00:00Sew Menswear #Blazerof2016 Challenge!<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: left;">
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So this blog post is a little different
than my normal and rather than showing you what I have made recently, it will
hopefully inspire you to take on a sewing challenge! <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> You must have noticed my opening image?</span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Let me explain. A few weeks back I asked my
Twitter followers what I should make for my next sewing project and one reply
from Janene<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><a href="https://twitter.com/ooobop" target="_blank">@ooobop</a> caught my attention
and got us ‘talking’ via the ether of social media. Janene suggested I make a
man’s blazer with bound lapels (the ulterior-motive being for her to pick up my
‘hot tips’). Now as you all probably know I love making jackets and coats so
this would be a good excuse to make another jacket! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now this is where things took a bit of a
turn….Although I love making menswear I am in the minority. I just don’t see
many others making clothes for men and it’s a shame. So championing the cause
for more people to make menswear I suggested Janene made a jacket too, well a
bit of a ‘sew-off’ really. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So <b>#Blazerof2016</b> was born! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Starting today and finishing in June we
want you take the challenge and sew a piece of menswear, in particular a man’s
blazer! I know we see many such sewing challenges throughout the year but they
are always for women clothes. With this challenge we are trying to raise
awareness of sewing for men and also trying to get people to think about the
limited range of menswear patterns available: Did you know that menswear
patterns account for less than 6% of all the commercial patterns available!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I know many of you will be a little wary of
such a challenge, being a little different and edging into the realms of
‘tailoring’ but really, making a jacket isn’t that hard: Although I have been
sewing for years, I only made my first jacket about a year ago! (I’ve made a
few more since though!). <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We want you to take the challenge use the
hashtag <b><i>#Blazerof2016</i></b>, tag us in your tweets <b><i>@ooobop</i></b> and <i><b>@maledevonsewing</b></i> to
share your progress, problems, cries for help but above all share the finished
garment.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Janene has created this fabulous badge and
we want you to use it too. Add it to your blog, share it with others in your
sewing network and lets get the word spread for #Blazerof2016.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMhOOj9So29rAAqTumWrFL4yg_4mHB0FxGjzGlopNX2GZGzyQ7rVUwkaP3LWpi1MUJSqJw1KnAqYaMFBTViULyDHbUv_tiaJWOwLN2HlJyhXGJ_fFsB1xRd8rVYYVxEhaqoQ-Eh6tlgLu/s1600/blazerof2016_badge_220.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxMhOOj9So29rAAqTumWrFL4yg_4mHB0FxGjzGlopNX2GZGzyQ7rVUwkaP3LWpi1MUJSqJw1KnAqYaMFBTViULyDHbUv_tiaJWOwLN2HlJyhXGJ_fFsB1xRd8rVYYVxEhaqoQ-Eh6tlgLu/s1600/blazerof2016_badge_220.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The ‘rules’ are simple:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
</div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<ul>
<li><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Make a Man’s blazer/jacket
using any pattern of your choice or draft your own?!, it MUST be a piece of
menswear though!</span></i></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Your choice of fabric suitable
for a jacket.</span></i></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Can be fully lined, part lined
or unlined (although if unlined the seams need to be suitably finished).</span></i></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Must have some sort of pockets
(your choice again: Patch, Flap, Welt).</span></i></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Your choice of vent at the
back, either single or double.</span></i></li>
</ul>
<ul>
<li><i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-indent: -18pt;">Your choice to have
opening/buttoned cuffs or not.</span> </i></li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<ul>
<li><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i> Jacket to be completed by June.</i></span></li>
</ul>
</blockquote>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That’s it really; we want you to be as
creative as you can. We want to see jackets with flair, bold colours or
patterns but above all we want you to try something different. Have a go and
you might get the menswear-sewing bug. Here's a few ideas...<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTFN643IxUJqAXfEbERJhJWk7dN0db1JdX2fTxcBbIahtesA_XDcovxmcvuRBY-Rae8ziMmP9-O6qiMj7be4-eepHn_-PBA3FKQobdeksauW1ZS8G74liAc6fgMhXc49hUtHd2RPXF3BbI/s1600/76433512fc03338f1bce62e2090c0fe1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTFN643IxUJqAXfEbERJhJWk7dN0db1JdX2fTxcBbIahtesA_XDcovxmcvuRBY-Rae8ziMmP9-O6qiMj7be4-eepHn_-PBA3FKQobdeksauW1ZS8G74liAc6fgMhXc49hUtHd2RPXF3BbI/s200/76433512fc03338f1bce62e2090c0fe1.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pinterest.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8NxAyLjSduQXjL8PwK0AL3meXb67WmsQtmlYO8udnuy1va6pr6zbzGeL5iIbP4nSUWm6P2-ioqmDXmbSp5nMw_Q9WfjE0HVHimM5bRCmZH53eSvDkmnI4RvVeivOL8sGa1WnFn2eaGJud/s1600/British-Dress-Coat-2015-Plaid-blazer-masculino-slim-fit-men-blazer-designs-Famous-Brand-mens-blazers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8NxAyLjSduQXjL8PwK0AL3meXb67WmsQtmlYO8udnuy1va6pr6zbzGeL5iIbP4nSUWm6P2-ioqmDXmbSp5nMw_Q9WfjE0HVHimM5bRCmZH53eSvDkmnI4RvVeivOL8sGa1WnFn2eaGJud/s200/British-Dress-Coat-2015-Plaid-blazer-masculino-slim-fit-men-blazer-designs-Famous-Brand-mens-blazers.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aliexpress.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKb7564V5K7anWl7GvDEm5uNybgbcittLRIpIlzw19CanKFpWNOaIF-dWFZmRpfnMeSwkI-w0B0jfvyz1qZDvtotXjYv-a2TPDPjGLFXPaM17UzGpXXzE_L5tSJmNDJj8qSSIyr6amn4eG/s1600/T2XHsWXeXaXXXXXXXX_%2521%2521686806561.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKb7564V5K7anWl7GvDEm5uNybgbcittLRIpIlzw19CanKFpWNOaIF-dWFZmRpfnMeSwkI-w0B0jfvyz1qZDvtotXjYv-a2TPDPjGLFXPaM17UzGpXXzE_L5tSJmNDJj8qSSIyr6amn4eG/s200/T2XHsWXeXaXXXXXXXX_%2521%2521686806561.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kingblazers.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq0OizGDo29WWsWBrVBdit3lkfbCaO1ua0y5F3bwmTeLOQzmp1ZuiPnJeMLvMJ9O4kTVI05T45S4PfSpUQuq1b6y5Ll6j-oIvwn3S8YxssrjmOeXUVbGUtSyaZ_02_XNKdgtdXrHclcP1a/s1600/2015-Teen-printing-large-size-men-s-fashion-trend-leisure-blazers-vintage-plaid-suits-linen-blazers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq0OizGDo29WWsWBrVBdit3lkfbCaO1ua0y5F3bwmTeLOQzmp1ZuiPnJeMLvMJ9O4kTVI05T45S4PfSpUQuq1b6y5Ll6j-oIvwn3S8YxssrjmOeXUVbGUtSyaZ_02_XNKdgtdXrHclcP1a/s200/2015-Teen-printing-large-size-men-s-fashion-trend-leisure-blazers-vintage-plaid-suits-linen-blazers.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aliexpress.com</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Leave a comment below or with <a href="http://www.ooobop.com/" target="_blank">Janene</a> if you are 'in' and use
the badge to promote the challenge. Don’t forget to head over to Janenes blog
at <a href="http://ooobop.com/">ooobop.com</a> and see what she is saying
about the challenge. Remember this challenge is for fun. Take your time and enjoy the process!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">OK time for me to go and pick some fabric!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Until next time….Happy sewing</span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-20691843047245175842016-01-07T13:33:00.001+00:002016-01-07T13:33:06.800+00:00Two very different coats and a forgotten dress!<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Happy New Year!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now that the holiday season has finished I thought I would share my latest creations. Well one make I did mention, <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/11/a-busy-few-weeks.html" target="_blank">way before christmas</a>, that being a coat for Lu as a Christmas present. Well here it is on a very windswept Boxing Day walk!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRI91vuSSL5ki3J1KOHOQoIfqzAmFbWX68fIO0nSQUgem8Hykpc7vniARzaE3QYjdKiu8Y6VJltpwdoUumiYuSxGUWO_m_7HMaDmSvppMD4LEI4QceXyS34K63DcXnDE7rkmYQmg4hA_lp/s1600/20151226_121904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRI91vuSSL5ki3J1KOHOQoIfqzAmFbWX68fIO0nSQUgem8Hykpc7vniARzaE3QYjdKiu8Y6VJltpwdoUumiYuSxGUWO_m_7HMaDmSvppMD4LEI4QceXyS34K63DcXnDE7rkmYQmg4hA_lp/s200/20151226_121904.jpg" width="112" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Sorry it's not the most flattering photo but the coat certainly did the job on a very windy day. The coat was originally to come from the Burda Style Magazine from January 2015 like this:</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2sLe4jl4Kb4_BVS7w6B18sC_t7Mshcnhlw0x7QlB9pWJoOhJkPzQG_jNq2e2oQxH0FXBaJh5Rij55Fhew6IkZ3jmOsKu1Is4U5lo3kPa-cjt4JK9yyfpPyOXUoPlRMRzuIT_T_fgoSdb-/s1600/20151108_215635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2sLe4jl4Kb4_BVS7w6B18sC_t7Mshcnhlw0x7QlB9pWJoOhJkPzQG_jNq2e2oQxH0FXBaJh5Rij55Fhew6IkZ3jmOsKu1Is4U5lo3kPa-cjt4JK9yyfpPyOXUoPlRMRzuIT_T_fgoSdb-/s200/20151108_215635.jpg" width="112" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">That idea changed after reading the November issue. Lu liked the look of this coat, without the fur collar and a little shorter.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHkA1TkbZmsf2YYGHbqOJ2fQQnKzKnAuKgT-NDOIEEDp777uetI4jEA4Kvm7pESAwM2VhQgaizA7IjOQEyud6ghyOamJP4Y-3A0dmefA_hWjSXdH7Jpsv3upjFHABjPppDZaL9KRHSvLn8/s1600/20160107_125021.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHkA1TkbZmsf2YYGHbqOJ2fQQnKzKnAuKgT-NDOIEEDp777uetI4jEA4Kvm7pESAwM2VhQgaizA7IjOQEyud6ghyOamJP4Y-3A0dmefA_hWjSXdH7Jpsv3upjFHABjPppDZaL9KRHSvLn8/s200/20160107_125021.jpg" width="112" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had already got the material; wool Barathea in a gorgeous red so set about the make. As with all of the Burda patterns I have made this make went together without any problems.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27bxgechmqowNN2bpbk-jT8B2VlxiqFFppEZO6PTTzH-jKP7AQceEb6VMIWv8gV8nWMxticsXcY0Lw0OLw9V3dc_GXzJgKtAExRgxmVpTBg6Z2AVa4gXI25xnPWIX0zAJj_scbGj-Wtyr/s1600/20151203_135634.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27bxgechmqowNN2bpbk-jT8B2VlxiqFFppEZO6PTTzH-jKP7AQceEb6VMIWv8gV8nWMxticsXcY0Lw0OLw9V3dc_GXzJgKtAExRgxmVpTBg6Z2AVa4gXI25xnPWIX0zAJj_scbGj-Wtyr/s200/20151203_135634.jpg" width="200" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The only real issue with the make was the buttonholes. The buttons being a fair size larger than my buttonhole foot meant I had to do them 'manually' on the machine. (I'll knock up a little tutorial at some point about this). The coat was finished by lining in black silk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So I forgot about a dress I made.....Why? Well it was such a quick make and I completed it in just over 2 hours... I had the fabric in my stash and knocked up a version of the Kwik Sew shift dress.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was worn by Lu on Christmas and Harry got to wear his waistcoat for the big day.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So the other coat I mentioned was for me. Yes another coat! I know I have too many but I just love making them. Another from Burda but this time from a printed pattern.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Again I already had the material a beige cotton velvet/moleskin. Now as an aside, I picked the colour of the fabric because of the colour of the cows on the farm where we live! Strange but true (not the colour of the cows but why I chose the fabric!)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Again a pretty simple make with flapped welt pockets at the front and no other complicated things like vents or opening cuffs etc.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The collar was put on all in one with the facings so that seam needed careful clipping and grading to ease the bulk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I did worry that the machine might struggle through so many layers but my Janome flew through it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I lined with a burgundy to match the buttons.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I'm looking forward to winter appearing so I can wear it. I'm not sure what the weather is like where you are but here in the UK it is still unseasonably warm!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So that's about it for my first post of 2016. You might have noticed I have changed my blog a little bit. I want a nice clean simple layout for the start of the new year. I will apologise in advance if there are missing links or something goes wrong but I'll try to get it up and running smoothly as quick as I can.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I hope to add a lot more tutorials and bits designed for the novice sewist over the next few weeks so please do share with people you think might benefit.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So until next time......Happy sewing!</span></div>
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Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-78881720608489041752015-12-28T22:46:00.001+00:002016-01-06T14:41:19.633+00:00Male Devon Sewing 2015. Review of the year.<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So it has been a whole year! I started this blog as a means of documenting my sewing and the things I have made. I am sure this is how many blogs start and I have to be honest, I never really thought I would keep on blogging.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well I have and this is a round-up of the year. I have posted 52 posts this year concentrating on my sewing and throwing in a few sew-alongs and tutorials along the way. </span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So back in January </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had just over 300 views! Incredibly 300 people </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">looked at what I was writing about. I really didn't expect that many people to be at all interested in what I was blogging.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My posts included a tutorial on how to make an <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/gadgettablet-holder-sew-along.html" target="_blank">iPad/Tablet holder</a>, <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/the-coat-is-finished.html" target="_blank">A new coat make</a> and a tutorial showing how to construct a <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/tutorial-weltjetted-pocket.html" target="_blank">Welt/Jetted pocket</a>. January also saw the <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/its-boy.html" target="_blank">birth of my son </a>Harry so I made a few 'smaller' clothes.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Step forward to April and my page views had started to soar to 900+ a month! I had blogged about <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/vintage-patterns-are-beautiful.html" target="_blank">Vintage patterns</a>, <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/02/jeans-for-mum.html" target="_blank">Jeans for my wife</a> and a <a href="https://www.blogger.com/"><span id="goog_1874507427"></span>complete shirt sew-along. </a></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuoo5vvAP15GFzbUMyFkCm6jFY5oSYTpXfkR5Mj9C8CtbDaKoumHvz_ok6_S0_a-UxiN8GKbmy5-It7_GUWdKuawOAgbYKQFMIJIJX6ltQWWXTr2PBSlarEt97DZLSn9lJ_FFa1VW_3vJ3/s1600/20150307_181502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuoo5vvAP15GFzbUMyFkCm6jFY5oSYTpXfkR5Mj9C8CtbDaKoumHvz_ok6_S0_a-UxiN8GKbmy5-It7_GUWdKuawOAgbYKQFMIJIJX6ltQWWXTr2PBSlarEt97DZLSn9lJ_FFa1VW_3vJ3/s200/20150307_181502.jpg" width="112" /></a></span></div>
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By August things had really started to take off and I was getting 3000+ views a month. Why were people so interested in my sewing? Well I had added a couple of sew alongs; <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/05/linen-summer-jacket-part-4-final-steps.html" target="_blank">my Linen summer jacket</a> and <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/italy-is-coming-to-devon-well-little.html" target="_blank">Neapolitan style jacket</a>, plus a few other makes.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now, at the end of 2015, Male Devon Sewing is getting 5000+ views a month and I am really pleased. Obviously someone somewhere likes what I am blogging about. The lovely people at <a href="http://www.ernestwright.co.uk/" target="_blank">Ernest Wright and Sons</a> gave me a pair of their <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/ernest-wright-and-son-8-dressmakers.html" target="_blank">8" dressmakers scissors to review</a>, I became a member of the <a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/blogger-network/all" target="_blank">Minerva crafts Bloggers Network </a>and was even in a copy of <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/male-devon-sewing-has-won-something-im.html" target="_blank">Love Sewing magazine</a> for that months star make.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So nearly 30000 views this year and counting. My top post being the <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/mens-shirt-complete-sew-along-tutorial.html" target="_blank">Step-by-step Shirt Tutorial</a> followed by my tutorials on <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/tutorial-weltjetted-pocket.html" target="_blank">Welt pockets</a>, <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/lined-patch-pocket-tutorial.html" target="_blank">Patch pockets</a> and <a href="http://maledevonsewing.blogspot.co.uk/2015/12/lovely-button-holes-cheats-way.html" target="_blank">Button holes</a>. I've received nearly 200 comments on my posts throughout the year.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So what will Male Devon Sewing be doing in 2016? I hope to blog a little more often and feature a lot more tutorials. My book "How to build a shirt" will be published in the spring and I have a feature in a magazine coming up soon.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTraf8cxTpP-qf9WDV8jh5lWM3yWKnZX5E2OW4zRuA9dnH8CagcPPTpR13V18kLpNv5UZrh7jh9HqnFHzk2F1zLzijO-xPcAy6uIAlp7TKuqeQh85e3AwFDEDzRdSKV1JsPk8buXCXZWuJ/s1600/bookcover2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTraf8cxTpP-qf9WDV8jh5lWM3yWKnZX5E2OW4zRuA9dnH8CagcPPTpR13V18kLpNv5UZrh7jh9HqnFHzk2F1zLzijO-xPcAy6uIAlp7TKuqeQh85e3AwFDEDzRdSKV1JsPk8buXCXZWuJ/s200/bookcover2.jpg" width="125" /></a></div>
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I hope to be taking steps to create a few new patterns for menswear (something badly missing from the sewing world) and more importantly.......Enjoy sewing.</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So until next time.....Happy New Year and thank you all for following, reading, commenting and taking Male Devon Sewing to somewhere I never imagined it would be!</span><br />
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</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">See you all in 2016</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br />
</span> <span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jamie</span><br />
<br />Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-13735830648719860802015-12-23T16:33:00.000+00:002016-01-03T22:42:58.385+00:002015 nearly over. Last bit of sewing before Christmas<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I thought I would post a quick blog update before the festive season gets into full swing this week. With only 2 days to go before Christmas I am sure you have all been busy getting ready? I know we have. Making the odd present or two and getting things in order but I've still been sewing, although a little less than normal and wanted to share the following makes before we get swept up in the festivities.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So a <a href="http://lovesewingmag.co.uk/" target="_blank">Love Sewing magazine</a> pattern, (from <a href="http://simplesewpatterns.com/" target="_blank">Simple Sew</a>) in this months magazine caught my eye. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">(can you believe they are on issue 21 already!?)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkidjmOpk27BSMThLZ16WdQUYuyFTLsU0PmztOhuE9bt0L7vRCqIs-np3IZuXyI3laU2iOjNG5J41k4tDxLQTGhG_vIA6kI9c2Mg2-TRAQnYui2tE8yXVVaemlUSK_ZNL6yTQ7TPHjXa1/s1600/20151222_194755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkidjmOpk27BSMThLZ16WdQUYuyFTLsU0PmztOhuE9bt0L7vRCqIs-np3IZuXyI3laU2iOjNG5J41k4tDxLQTGhG_vIA6kI9c2Mg2-TRAQnYui2tE8yXVVaemlUSK_ZNL6yTQ7TPHjXa1/s200/20151222_194755.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A simple notch collar jacket. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nothing fancy but as I had some wool blend, spare in my stash, I made a version. I skipped the pockets to keep the clean lines.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeVz9wgSK9pxr2B2oO7Ir1Io_vhw3CHZdPvwZ9Ke-4nA7O_yc6Awtgx6Sd8Jap41EVDRPrAHSFJKPC0odHsPv67m1HQEVQsLrxV-3Vesoiigpu0XT4tNnlyZNRxWCgyWEGuA9NZSxalbj8/s1600/20151215_232456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeVz9wgSK9pxr2B2oO7Ir1Io_vhw3CHZdPvwZ9Ke-4nA7O_yc6Awtgx6Sd8Jap41EVDRPrAHSFJKPC0odHsPv67m1HQEVQsLrxV-3Vesoiigpu0XT4tNnlyZNRxWCgyWEGuA9NZSxalbj8/s200/20151215_232456.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now at the same time I made a dress to go with the jacket (layering is the fashion you know!). Again from Love Sewing but a pattern from way back to issue 4. The Alexa midi dress.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYfpQQyuYCsZlQuGbwJy_glmlr9bn92j35TNovXCxaKs-TSBBZdZOFgwDh1y-GMLHcaUBZ1FpiVFhdmjesnqGxdC1VM5NVarhhU0mVzxJe-0SkZjf98fjeer0VuxFfTNeWWcFnNLa8X2_y/s1600/20151222_194808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYfpQQyuYCsZlQuGbwJy_glmlr9bn92j35TNovXCxaKs-TSBBZdZOFgwDh1y-GMLHcaUBZ1FpiVFhdmjesnqGxdC1VM5NVarhhU0mVzxJe-0SkZjf98fjeer0VuxFfTNeWWcFnNLa8X2_y/s200/20151222_194808.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Again a nice simple make and together I think they make a nice combination?</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgudTGc4ulEKF4Uoo_l6Te6GS6J44LW7zNQMlYcDrMBODv_49nLuy_3LzQ6KmdwwJXDhp0djONSP_6ey_iDKSWKCBoCXLgxcsCYHLpMY_jFLE5eCqUBLx7pIKfen8IFUmTLqqwGc8EaCqsY/s1600/20151218_113350.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgudTGc4ulEKF4Uoo_l6Te6GS6J44LW7zNQMlYcDrMBODv_49nLuy_3LzQ6KmdwwJXDhp0djONSP_6ey_iDKSWKCBoCXLgxcsCYHLpMY_jFLE5eCqUBLx7pIKfen8IFUmTLqqwGc8EaCqsY/s200/20151218_113350.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now this will be our son, Harry's, first Christmas so I had to make him something for the big day. A quick rummage turned up some seasonal fabric (although I have no idea where it came from) and made a little waistcoat and bow tie set.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXYDLBI95JJQuw8eEwK3le5z5nLtMSjgXxls4TLIltvZlMEuQFxqGYueQWd_jPIQX-k07UdAlFKRkkH9FhAtM46mbxo3-XW8UBqCoNhM-nV1h1XZM8PhcbwwiZCegwk0WWq5f_DKw44jHZ/s1600/20151214_193421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXYDLBI95JJQuw8eEwK3le5z5nLtMSjgXxls4TLIltvZlMEuQFxqGYueQWd_jPIQX-k07UdAlFKRkkH9FhAtM46mbxo3-XW8UBqCoNhM-nV1h1XZM8PhcbwwiZCegwk0WWq5f_DKw44jHZ/s200/20151214_193421.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A few days later we went for our daily walk and I still cannot believe how warm it is here in the UK. It is supposed to be winter! It was too warm for a coat but cool enough to want something else. Easy Lu and I popped on our Gilets/Body warmers but poor Harry doesn't have one. Well he does now!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvOqOFFyKO6TlYf6ZGziaZhhWUgDRhdFhviEF9i3pgi4-WJs_qJ3_jJMoQEFznwhMN0QrOUvrwB6bKx8Hja_jPourGk1J-6ZxcraPWBR4kV3zDaRY6bl17Z2duEsHcn_Lz70e2O6_tdrE2/s1600/20151222_194732.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvOqOFFyKO6TlYf6ZGziaZhhWUgDRhdFhviEF9i3pgi4-WJs_qJ3_jJMoQEFznwhMN0QrOUvrwB6bKx8Hja_jPourGk1J-6ZxcraPWBR4kV3zDaRY6bl17Z2duEsHcn_Lz70e2O6_tdrE2/s200/20151222_194732.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Nice warm corduroy with warm lining. Now lets hope the weather continues.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So that's it for now as I can smell the mince pies cooking. So until next time.......</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfvusib4usfhUy-KT6YV22HYYmU-DIGsdtT535-9vW-_78DlcqAdo4NM9NH0kJNaHNNApMNxSgW8RT5ZeCMKjFJ6cvzlGykRv-vlEqCJcpFe2Df9Dp9aIvmrxoQocFw3FUZQtVGBkGBsQG/s1600/6330896119_8fcc0c9a27_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="126" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfvusib4usfhUy-KT6YV22HYYmU-DIGsdtT535-9vW-_78DlcqAdo4NM9NH0kJNaHNNApMNxSgW8RT5ZeCMKjFJ6cvzlGykRv-vlEqCJcpFe2Df9Dp9aIvmrxoQocFw3FUZQtVGBkGBsQG/s200/6330896119_8fcc0c9a27_o.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Jamie</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-485827609126680852.post-89927205355228691402015-12-13T21:56:00.001+00:002016-01-03T22:43:47.348+00:00Lovely button holes the 'cheats' way<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">OK this is a quick post really to show a couple of people on Twitter how I do my 'cheats' button holes. I was having a chat with <a href="https://twitter.com/almondrock_sews" target="_blank">@almondrock_sews</a> and <a href="https://twitter.com/HouseOFpinheiro" target="_blank">@housofpinheiro</a> about how I do my button holes without wasting time so here we go!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We all love hand sewn button holes, they are beautiful and crafted with skill and love. The problem is they take time....For a professional Seamstress or Tailor they still take time...for us home sewists they take too much time! </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikehdNuQ7FkUuZpNF7trp6gTfOZsWLeIyRiv86JbJEMCD4sNi9cjqlxghCRQ7T04sHbuDM20hrdWdEv0zbsi0D62mB-gzqzhRi-y4JHzGJgO6u74KyhobfatI901CrafMLKJB0Ch95IzxH/s1600/4160929534_c8e1ce6642_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikehdNuQ7FkUuZpNF7trp6gTfOZsWLeIyRiv86JbJEMCD4sNi9cjqlxghCRQ7T04sHbuDM20hrdWdEv0zbsi0D62mB-gzqzhRi-y4JHzGJgO6u74KyhobfatI901CrafMLKJB0Ch95IzxH/s200/4160929534_c8e1ce6642_o.jpg" width="149" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">To do a proper hand sewn </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">button hole you need silk buttonhole twist thread, and gimp. These are not that readily available and I have only found them in a limited range of colours (please do let me know where I can get them in the UK!) </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So here is my way. OK purist will hate me but I am a mere home sewist who likes a good look. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><i>For this tutorial I shall make the buttonhole in a contrasting colour</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">So 2 pieces of cotton sewn together and buttonhole marked</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwC6V-L1_vlomRHwtFsgzeeUpWH2B62DqVoOZyLkBDs_Ia705rLsC4js_PjJmuQcFwwUWKiCn_pwjMB7WRcd28DECKCssLuwA_mDi9bGDrNUHdHV8xT4xqvsBXrwmDAYisCf1LKLgMujp/s1600/20151213_210045.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKwC6V-L1_vlomRHwtFsgzeeUpWH2B62DqVoOZyLkBDs_Ia705rLsC4js_PjJmuQcFwwUWKiCn_pwjMB7WRcd28DECKCssLuwA_mDi9bGDrNUHdHV8xT4xqvsBXrwmDAYisCf1LKLgMujp/s200/20151213_210045.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Take your buttonhole foot and place some embroidery thread (the same colour as you are stitching your buttonhole!) in the channel below.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBY_5-7QygdjLHdDQM_sLknHiocltLIF9PcvWIQUsNb5nhMVKJvP2Cf8ZaEkieRz_sd0zWfAVGNIOUNcAzfYGyoILivpLS-iiV_61MyBtp_4X9c3sLzxYxsw52ZPrv8tU5Zw2BjsuXkHV/s1600/20151213_210226.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqBY_5-7QygdjLHdDQM_sLknHiocltLIF9PcvWIQUsNb5nhMVKJvP2Cf8ZaEkieRz_sd0zWfAVGNIOUNcAzfYGyoILivpLS-iiV_61MyBtp_4X9c3sLzxYxsw52ZPrv8tU5Zw2BjsuXkHV/s200/20151213_210226.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Stitch the buttonhole using the machine as the instructions tell you!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJg-NQNeK11nc9Ni97lGxRNkkAryh4P2wVUw3Rk30CQQzgqQcinHxxDFbiHvN2l8yCMTlHQ2D7HWLLyUOCQ-ucSwHM6TEyoT4S5lbaiy0-N1u34RB77NQ_g22T4L0Hj1aqLBrty91oXBzl/s1600/20151213_210616.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJg-NQNeK11nc9Ni97lGxRNkkAryh4P2wVUw3Rk30CQQzgqQcinHxxDFbiHvN2l8yCMTlHQ2D7HWLLyUOCQ-ucSwHM6TEyoT4S5lbaiy0-N1u34RB77NQ_g22T4L0Hj1aqLBrty91oXBzl/s200/20151213_210616.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Done!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjauPB8J9viLuSG_ZzgMd7PXhyphenhyphenGrIeVoeqnLHSX3_ra1Q3O2PZhB3_yaxsfH6pgeJL6fvPLfNNktc0X2gk_KisrzvlHOg5k23T9922FXq2RU47lUwOdUsKUl9S81igAMwHrSuhe5ONqq8p/s1600/20151213_210812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjauPB8J9viLuSG_ZzgMd7PXhyphenhyphenGrIeVoeqnLHSX3_ra1Q3O2PZhB3_yaxsfH6pgeJL6fvPLfNNktc0X2gk_KisrzvlHOg5k23T9922FXq2RU47lUwOdUsKUl9S81igAMwHrSuhe5ONqq8p/s200/20151213_210812.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now cut the embroidery thread away at each end as close to the normal thread as possible.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyi_GNjrsZJsYuk3aYVPtPpukrhsRBVnAKiEqoJ1Nt1O1skpRlfmkMWcUYDn13-waiLgH9Pm0bWYDTlqF5-uqLnugiGEGOSIduR6Z_C47MqmDR-FOOIFb0bzYkH8j5FBaS5SJMxaIoED1r/s1600/20151213_210912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyi_GNjrsZJsYuk3aYVPtPpukrhsRBVnAKiEqoJ1Nt1O1skpRlfmkMWcUYDn13-waiLgH9Pm0bWYDTlqF5-uqLnugiGEGOSIduR6Z_C47MqmDR-FOOIFb0bzYkH8j5FBaS5SJMxaIoED1r/s200/20151213_210912.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Carefully cut the buttonhole opening. Cut close to each end.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJLH7H-RcsKop86zR3yguy2cqLX-9P7e259JF0YV0JPguIJD9aelwxOfpMUNNpKw4278HGbr0ZkHBs2Hov1iD-PmD_DtUfn3uuOJpOegxiNMPcEJsOjIFP-jx5fQYYWplViLet1LqTTEsG/s1600/20151213_211102.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJLH7H-RcsKop86zR3yguy2cqLX-9P7e259JF0YV0JPguIJD9aelwxOfpMUNNpKw4278HGbr0ZkHBs2Hov1iD-PmD_DtUfn3uuOJpOegxiNMPcEJsOjIFP-jx5fQYYWplViLet1LqTTEsG/s200/20151213_211102.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now thread a needle, double the thread and knot. </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Start at one end of the buttonhole and sew through and over one end, keeping the stitched close. Like a bar tack.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQJl6LzlJAJRpAsSKSx5aQXnLKIRGvUNBOXQVoTl6JdK06vAnIfNQMdXq2HIBINb8eedKap4Le7fEKvLErtiLwKQMTg87iplgzCv9MGm2LNp13NwS44It4TMyzyEkkFceVhZtyWE5VYW8e/s1600/20151213_211328.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQJl6LzlJAJRpAsSKSx5aQXnLKIRGvUNBOXQVoTl6JdK06vAnIfNQMdXq2HIBINb8eedKap4Le7fEKvLErtiLwKQMTg87iplgzCv9MGm2LNp13NwS44It4TMyzyEkkFceVhZtyWE5VYW8e/s200/20151213_211328.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Now take the needle through the buttonhole and pass upwards (use the machine made stitching as a guide) but don't pull the needle all the way through!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1yGspOl3DJWheNsPagGEHPZXdTMVjkEEzZF47oCd4Dyaig2mJYFYRL3LqTWi65Uyaw5Fa1oaIocYBYTv5Gs9uIJoY_h9OZuzKA7BWKXTikZl8Exv6thGRKWOb7zIRCPnwWGGV8Dx3GdF/s1600/20151213_211428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL1yGspOl3DJWheNsPagGEHPZXdTMVjkEEzZF47oCd4Dyaig2mJYFYRL3LqTWi65Uyaw5Fa1oaIocYBYTv5Gs9uIJoY_h9OZuzKA7BWKXTikZl8Exv6thGRKWOb7zIRCPnwWGGV8Dx3GdF/s200/20151213_211428.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Wrap the thread under and around the needle in the same way as you are moving. So if you are stitching from left to right pass the thread from left to right and vice versa.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-k-kCIpuX_f1H0vqLLjJ_qIJyR6tnsssAWRZ5iXJvPdAjbgstfwwzEmgeRA9LzMlqdf_cLlrzV2GrI8Ju5AKvBGzdaaDKGrumBqSQVvpy-pm3OQFWcPfVSctdtsHRm6vMIDWY2FOuJdn/s1600/20151213_211446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY-k-kCIpuX_f1H0vqLLjJ_qIJyR6tnsssAWRZ5iXJvPdAjbgstfwwzEmgeRA9LzMlqdf_cLlrzV2GrI8Ju5AKvBGzdaaDKGrumBqSQVvpy-pm3OQFWcPfVSctdtsHRm6vMIDWY2FOuJdn/s200/20151213_211446.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Pull the needle through and up. This forms the little knot (or purl stitch) then keeping the stitches close keep going. When you get to the other end do another bar tack over the end and continue down the other side of the button hole. (You can see the difference in the lower left)</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6NsJkA47Z7LrGfUaE5UQc52M7UqxkRsnvOCaKu0lL8Ov7FlOxTG2KEsenz9adHIn3Njh6L0ah0o4g75k3CKcJVGu0hJMMvPUaeym-xsf3Ip-vsK4KGmRrGTA5bKObW0esU46sVg8d3uwY/s1600/20151213_211849.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6NsJkA47Z7LrGfUaE5UQc52M7UqxkRsnvOCaKu0lL8Ov7FlOxTG2KEsenz9adHIn3Njh6L0ah0o4g75k3CKcJVGu0hJMMvPUaeym-xsf3Ip-vsK4KGmRrGTA5bKObW0esU46sVg8d3uwY/s200/20151213_211849.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This is a finished version (on a real garment) done this way. Each buttonhole takes about 10 mins more but it is well worth it!</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUU8_qveHrqq20CMavNa1SvP_77AvwVXTNDPpUgZXUg5xoqtT9ehgWayOG3LpxwdKuODVycgaLQjh7lBjBaqN39E59LBrvu39r2QkLdNFu_RFk0NZXazeNnIfzJ3KygeBST3rbQrjoyFJr/s1600/20151213_203131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUU8_qveHrqq20CMavNa1SvP_77AvwVXTNDPpUgZXUg5xoqtT9ehgWayOG3LpxwdKuODVycgaLQjh7lBjBaqN39E59LBrvu39r2QkLdNFu_RFk0NZXazeNnIfzJ3KygeBST3rbQrjoyFJr/s200/20151213_203131.jpg" width="112" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Until next time.... Happy sewing</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span>Jamie Kemphttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05233627711129525923noreply@blogger.com8