John Kaldor print, Burda shirt make

So having rummaged through the lovely pile of fabric I was so kindly gifted, I stumbled upon a beautiful bold flower print by John Kaldor. I have tried to find the print online but can't see it, so if anyone knows the name of the print please let me know.

Pulling my go-to, Burda 7045 pattern out, I knocked up this shirt with a few modifications/detailing. I lengthened the fronts by 3 inches and then curved them to meet the original side seam and repeated the process for the back. 7045 is a short straight hemmed shirt but I prefer a bit more fabric to tuck in.

I opted for view C collar, which has the collar points buttoned down using a small loop behind and an extra pair of buttons either side of the central collar button. You can just see it in the next photo. Of course, being such a bold print I had to pattern match as much as possible including the front.

The centre button placket for the original pattern is a simple (double) folded under affair but I opted to go for a sewn on version (English placket). Simple enough to cut the original design and recut another button stand (making sure the pattern matched of course!) This was sewn in place and top-stitched. I quite like the look of the double button, so spaced 12 buttons holes up the front. You can just see the pattern matched pocket with burgundy edge stitching.

The under, button stand was made in the same way but in the contrasting burgundy cotton. This burgundy cotton was also used for the collar stand (inside and out) and the inner yoke. The yokes were bias cut and I didn't pattern match the outer yoke as I like the feature of a visible yoke.

I wanted to do something different with the cuffs so made the placket in the burgundy and the cuff outer the same way. The inner cuff was in the floral fabric (so sort of reversed) and I added a small loop to mirror the collar loops.

Rather than cut the mitred shape in the cuffs I folded them up (so showing the floral print) and they are held in place with the cuff edge stitching. Now if you follow my makes, you will know, I always add an odd button to my left cuff and of course this shirt wouldn't be any different. I picked up this funky scissor button on a recent visit to the fabulous Bunyip Beads here in Exeter. (Definitely worth a visit if you are passing).

A few more photos:

So 23 button holes and buttons later its all finished. Although it is not my normal style of print for a shirt, I am really pleased with how it came out and will certainly be wearing it out and about. I hope you like it and please let me know what things you do to add a little 'detail' when sewing.

Until next time........Happy Sewing!

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