Sleeve setting time in the #Blazerof2016 challenge

Hello again readers, so time for an update on the #Blazerof2016 make. In the last post I had finished the lapels and collar ready for the sleeves.

The sleeves are a two part sleeve, with upper and under sleeve and have non opening cuffs. There are buttonholes and buttons for show!

So cut your pieces and carefully mark the wrong sides. Remember with a 2 part sleeve they are 'handed' so one for the left and one for the right! I have made the mistake of not taking notice and ending up with 2 left sleeves! Don't make the same mistake!

Now as the sleeves have 'fake' button/holes mark them on the upper sleeve as instructed on the pattern (the upper is the bigger part of the sleeve)

I then stitched the 3 buttonholes by machine. After setting the button holes press well to get rid of the wrinkles (not yet done here!)

Next sew the under and upper sleeve together, clip seams and press seam open.

Then I attached the buttons. (I don't like button thread coming through the lining so I do it now)

You will note the green thread in my bottom button. I always use a different colour for  button or button hole on my left sleeve (my little 'trademark)

Next mark a line around the sleeve head. Start about 2in from the bottom of the sleeve curve. The pattern will say to do it on the seam line or just inside. I always mark mine about 1/4 inch past the seam line. 

Now stitch a long running stitch along this line. Use the longest stitch on your machine. Take the bobbin thread and carefully pull to gather the fabric. Now sew the other seam on the sleeve. This is the time to check which sleeve is LH or RH. Turn right side out and you will see. If you are not sure slip the sleeve onto your arm!

Here you can see the gathered sleeve on the right compared to the un-gathered. When gathered, use steam on you iron (lots of steam!) and shrink the gathered sleeve head slightly. (Don't touch the iron on the cloth just pass steam over it)

Now the tricky part (well actually it isn't that bad). Turn the sleeve the right way out and turn the jacket inside out. Put the sleeve in the hole of the jacket, matching notches and seams as instructed (with LH sleeve in LH side of jacket and RH sleeve in RH jacket hole! Remember the jacket is inside out!!!). Pin well and baste in place.

Now sew carefully around the sleeve/arm hole. Take your time and keep everything smooth and flat.

Clip the seams and turn the jacket back right way. Admire your work! Well done! Now repeat for the other sleeve.

Remove the gathering stitches you made earlier.

You will notice that I matched the yellow stripe (I discussed how i pattern matched in an earlier post) but I moved the sleeve down so the black/red stripe contrasted with the jacket. This was intentional! I wanted the sleeves to show but wanted the pattern to match (if that makes sense!!??)

Right next post we will tackle the sleeve head, homemade shoulder pads and roll for the cap.

Until next time....Happy sewing

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