Lined Patch Pocket Tutorial

OK a quick tutorial for you all. I posted a poll on Twitter and this is what you chose. A lined patch pocket. I know, sounds easy and yes it is but if you've not done one before then I hope this helps. A patch pocket is exactly what it says, a patch of fabric sewn onto the garment forming a pocket. Think of your jeans: patch pocket on the back yes? Well when you start making more it is nice to have a simple patch pocket with lining. Not only does it feel better when you put your hand in but there are no raw edges inside collecting dust.

So here we go. This is the way I do it and I'm sure there are other ways but it works.

I have made up a pattern for the pocket with a 1/4 inch seam allowance all round and a 1 inch turned down facing for the top of the pocket (dashed line marks the fold).

Now cut the fabric and lining (I have marked the wrong sides with a X). I have cut the lining the same size as the pocket as it takes too much time to work out the difference in size between them. I'll trim the lining later.

Wrong sides marked.

Now with RIGHT SIDES together and top edges aligned, stitch from each end leaving a gap of about 1.5 inches in the middle.

Open out the seam and press.

Now fold down the top of the pocket (1 inch in my case) and press. Still with RIGHT SIDES together!

Flip it over and you will see the lining hangs below the fabric.

No problem, just trim it to shape!

Now (Still with right sides together!) sew your seam from top edge around to the other top. edge.

Clip the corners/grade seams as required

The little hole you left in the top seam allows you to pull the pocket through to the right side. Carefully pull it through and press. Now close the gap by hand and slip-stitch it together.

Press the pocket and you are done!

OK now you need to attach it to the garment......3 ways spring to mind.

1. Hand stitch it carefully around the edge using short concealed stitches.

2. Top/Edge stitch it using the machine. Place the pocket and pin/baste in place then stitch around. (The stitching in the photo is too far from the edge but shows the method)

3. The clever way. Using a zip foot on the machine, stitch the pocket lining to the garment. Roll the pocket fabric out the way and very carefully stitch the lining. Not only will the pocket seem invisibly attached but it lets the pocket move a little when in use.

Here you can see the lining stitched rather than the pocket fabric. Obviously you would use thread matching the lining colour!

So now you have no excuse to sew a beautiful patch pocket.

Until next time......Happy Sewing

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